Victoria to Cape Spear

Tuesday 18 September 2012

Addendum and PEI


Final Tally:  8063.2 km and 70 days on the bike (hurray!)
Time to sign off and thank you all for following my journey. In closing I’d like to share the following quotes which sum up our love of cycling, courtesy of the Velo Cape Breton weekly newsletter.  Adieu!

The best way to discover a new region is, of course, by cycling it! Some might say that it is slow and that it takes a long time to cover the distance. Well, they're perfectly right! And that's exactly why cyclists get to know the area better: they take their time. When pedalling to get somewhere, the travel is at least as important as the destination. It is not an unavoidable hassle; it is actually the main part of the trip. Hidden places, breathtaking scenery - and being able to stop anywhere to appreciate it - challenging uphills followed by thrilling downhills, refreshing sea breezes or subtle pinetree scents, it's all out there for cyclists to enjoy. There is no barrier to keep the environment and the people out of reach. And that makes for a lively trip. - (David Savoie and  Émilie Burelle)

A bicycle can give you the feeling of freedom and speed you get from riding a motorcycle, the sense of well-being and peace you get from meditating, the health benefits you get from an afternoon in the gym, the sense of self-expression you get from learning to play guitar, and the feeling of victory you get from completing a marathon. It's an invention that was in many ways ahead of its time, and whose time has finally come. - (Bike Snob NYC)

Heartfelt Thanks
I would like to thank Wayne, my biggest supporter, for all that he has done to make this cycle the trip of a lifetime.  I could never have contemplated it, let alone organized and carried it out without you.  A big thanks as well, to my daughters Samantha and Adrienne for all the help and posting of blog updates.  Keeping up the blog and knowing there were so many folks interested in following me along really did provide inspiration and motivation through the hills and heat and crises of confidence.  Thank you ALL for your support and your many messages of congratulations.  I feel blessed to have you as friends and family.  Last and by no means least, a special thanks to all the people who have hosted us and looked after us along the way, for those visits and the hospitality we enjoyed made the trip truly memorable.


PEI Total: 132.2 km

PEI Leg - Wood Islands Ferry Terminal to Confederation Bridge

September 17- 18th Finished!!
Distance and Time:  90.2 km at 5:13 and 42.0 at 2:17 (one of my slowest times!)
Route:  PEI Wood Islands Ferry Terminal to Confederation Bridge via TCH, hwy 26, Confederation Trail (through Charlottetown), TCH, hwy 116 and hwy 10

FINISHED!!
I’m sitting at the Visitor’s Centre in PEI updating the blog before we head back to the mainland on the bridge.  We got up before sunrise (yes, me) on Monday to make the 8:00 sailing to PEI from Souris.  There was frost in the air and fog in the valleys - definitely fall weather. It was a choppy crossing with the fresh westerly breeze.  Sailing time is 1h15m, and the ferry operates on a tight schedule, back and forth several times a day with a quick turn-around.
NS hwy scene enroute to Pictou
Wood Islands, PEI
PEI Ferry
Launching on final, final leg
I got away from the Wood Islands Terminal on the PEI side shortly before 10:00 but my good time ended there.  The headwinds were quite strong throughout the entire day and at times my odometer was only reading 12-15 km/hr.  It was all very enjoyable, though, with the sunny skies and fresh air. We stuck to the TCH for most of the day, simply because it has paved shoulders (or a resemblance of such) and traffic was light.  At this time of year the TCH in PEI seems more like country roads in the other provinces.  Hwy 26 provided a scenic alternative with less volume coming into Charlottetown and I elected to take the Confederation Trail through the city.  It is part of the Trans-Canada Trail, on an old railway bed with a hard packed gravel surface.  It took less than 15 minutes to traverse Charlottetown (not a big metropolis), but like in other cities, there were no street signs on the trail itself and I had to ask locals to identify cross roads a couple of times!

I popped into the main Cows store late in the afternoon as we left the city at the west end.  One can’t visit PEI without a visit to Cows for some of their famous ice cream.
PEI cows are just as cute as those in Saskatchewan

By that time it became apparent that we would need two days to cover the PEI leg as we were not going to make it to the bridge with the amount of daylight left.  This was a good call, however, as it gave us time to pop in on Blaine and Norma Jelley, friends from Belleville who spend their summers in Canoe Cove just southwest of Charlottetown.  What a lovely spot with all windows facing south and the beach a stone’s throw away.  They are almost directly across the Northumberland Strait from Marilyn and Bruce’s cottage (our overnight location on August 26th).
Gorgeous setting for a cottage - facing Northumberland Strait to the south


We parked for the night in a ball field tucked away from the road with complete privacy.  The setting was so quiet, with a blanket of stars and the Milky Way overhead.  PEI in fact, seems quiet and tranquil everywhere.  I can’t quite put my finger on it, but I get this sense of peacefulness every time I’m here.
Our last night of the cycle called for a special dinner
Tuesday was another beautiful day without a cloud in the sky and somewhat less of a breezy headwind.  I dawdled big time, taking a few quiet seaside roads along the coast along with the potatoe trucks and not many others.  It was an absolutely lovely way to spend the very last day of this cycle.
Scenes along the way:
1800's iceboat ferry service across Northumberland Strait
 
First glimpse of Confederation Bridge
Bridge commemorative structure

September 14-16th Weekend
After disembarking from the ferry we spent a lovely afternoon at the Coast Guard College near Sydney.  It was great to catch up with many old friends and colleagues and have a look at the State-of-the-Art Simulator (thanks Ron).

Continued on to the mainland via hwy 4 along the Bras D’Or Lakes (oh, so scenic) and stayed in New Glasgow Friday night and Saturday with Gerard and Janet.  After a windy afternoon cycle and great dinner at “The Dock”, we carried on to Chet and Doris’s home near Truro on Saturday evening and hung out with them on Sunday.  It was kind of cool to see Kevin and Audrey’s brood of chickens, ducks, dogs and one cute little girl, Gracie.
Billy, a sly Rhode Island Red Rooster
 

Gracie and the duck brood
Cozy parking spot
The three Amigos
Focused or what?
We managed to get another cycle in late in the day to the Masstown Market.  This place keeps growing every time we visit!  Now is has a beautiful lighthouse structure housing a fantastic fish market and a cool photobooth.
Bobble-head and the guy in the red vest
I've been craving lobster since arriving on the East Coast
Tomorrow we are heading over to PEI via the ferry on the NS side (with the motor-home and all), and hope to cycle to the bridge on the NB side by the end of the day.  Vehicles only pay to leave the island and the bridge fee is much less than the ferry, so we figured why not take it?  That way Wayne can cycle along and provide support.  

September 13-14th
Argentia to North Sydney ferry:
All over?
An incredibly beautiful voyage
  


Friday 14 September 2012

Leg 12 - Newfoundland (Port aux Basques to Cape Spear) - September 4th to 13th


Leg 12 total 934.5 km and Grand total 7931.0 k
(69 cycle days)

Leg 12 - Port aux Basques to Cape Spear
Thursday, September 13th
Distance and Time:  26.3 km at 1:16
Route:  Mount Pearl to Cape Spear via Petty Harbour and Maddox Cove on Ruby Line, hwy 3, hwy 10, Petty Harbour Rd., Maddox Cove Rd. and Blackhead Rd. 


My route across Canada ends here!


I knew my route was to be short and sweet today, yet I found myself automatically programmed from the previous 69 cycling days when I was getting ready for the day.  I packed a full bottle each of water and a hydration drink, snacks, an extra layer, alternate lenses, etc. The weather was gorgeous and such a blessing for this last little cycle.  Although it was incredibly scenic and short, it was not easy with the coastal hills.  In fact, when I saw the last major hill to Cape Spear stretching before me I decided to switch to the touring bike even though it involved a fair amount of effort on Wayne’s part to cycle back to the RV (and up that same hill) and drive back with the other bike.  It was only 3.5 km, but I made the right decision for I am certain I couldn’t have cycled it on my road bike, and would have been quite disappointed to walk on the very last segment.


The last big hill to Cape Spear - the photo doesn't do it justice
I’ve become quite fond of the steady old touring bike the last few days on the windy hills, and a little annoyed with the more finicky fair-weathered road bike (although I still love that cool handlebar tape).  The analogy which comes to mind is the comparison of a dependable workhorse with a higher maintenance race horse.  I should do some research to see if a bike with the gear ratio and brakes of the touring bike are available on the lighter and better fitted frame of the road bike. 

The trusted stead
While I was waiting for Wayne and my bike for the hill, I decided to take an inventory of my little blue saddle pouch carried just under my seat.  I’ve been meaning to do this for several weeks so I know what to pack for the next long haul cycle.  I was surprised with the amount of stuff stored in that small thing.



Contents of the small blue saddle bag carried under my seat
The above items include (clockwise from upper left): a spare tube, tire levers, CO2 cartridge and cartridge injector, compass and front white flashing light, key for a bike lock and rear red flashing light, whistle (for bears) and mini Swiss army knife, lens for cloudy conditions, RV keys (for the odd time when Wayne locks his keys in the vehicle or if I arrive there without him), first aid kit, reading glasses, power bar, insect repellent, sunscreen and bungy cord.  I have also managed to stuff in a shirt and a bike lock in that small pouch – it’s incredible.


Anyway, prior to the stop for the bike change, the route through Petty Harbour and Maddox’s Cove was awesome, although there was a fair amount of hurricane debris still on some of the roads.  When I lived in St. John’s in my early twenties, Jim and I went outside the box at the time and cycled around the city for awhile before we invested in a little truck before we left.  Hence we didn’t do a lot of exploring of the surrounding area, and I wasn’t aware that such quaint and pretty villages were a stone’s throw from St. John’s.


Petty Harbour

My arrival at Cape Spear felt a little anti-climatic as some big endings tend to be, I guess.  It was still very poignant and sweet, though, and nice to have some quiet reflective time to myself in such a beautiful setting to really experience the end.  
Cape Spear!!!
 
Letting it sink in....
We had always anticipated getting into St. John’s after Cape Spear to have a look down my memory lane and head up to Signal Hill so I could introduce Wayne to my most favourite walk from Cabot Tower down to the Narrows and into the Battery neighbourhood.  The delay due to Leslie was going to make this tight, and the extra delay of changing bikes would have made it a little too frantic as we had to depart by 2:30 to make the ferry.  So we decided that St. John’s would have to wait for another visit, and to relax and fully explore Cape Spear.  We have both been here before but neither of us had walked around the perimeter and taken the time to see all there was to see.  We toasted each other with a glass of sparkling Perrier and proceeded to do just that.  Wow! 

Tower on Signal Hill just right of centre, and my favourite walk along the rock between the water and hilltop



The anti-submarine guns installed during the war


We learned that the East Coast Trail passes around Cape Spear and continues in both directions.  I browsed through some material on it in the little gift shop and can’t wait to find a week of weather like this next year and come back to do this multi-day hike.  Yes, my bucket list is growing!
East Coast Trail meandering off to the right


As I packed my bike things away and stuffed the laundry bag with the smelly clothes I’ve been wearing for days (one gets attached to favourite items), I felt a little sad and already nostalgic.  Then I had a bright idea – I really should add PEI to the cycle, if only between the Pictou Ferry and Confederation Bridge.  I could get Wayne to drop me off and pick me up the day we will be near Truro to visit his brother. Stay tuned :).

Wednesday, September 12th
Distance and Time: 140.8km at 6:30
Route: TCH from exit to Come-by-Chance to hwy 2 and Ruby Line into Mount Pearl (St. John's suburb)

The night was cold and with daylight came bright sunshine along with some thick low-lying fog. I was back on my road bike, starting early (before 9:00), and had a wonderful sunny day with a light tailwind, well paved shoulders and temps around 20 degrees.


Launching

Come by Chance hwy exit
We stopped for lunch at the info centre near the junction of hwy 100 to the Argentia Ferry and the ladies there were most helpful with advice on the best route to Cape Spear.

By late afternoon I was into the heavy traffic on the double laned approach to St. John's. Traffic wasn't the only issue, though, as the moose warning lights were on in a construction zone at the same time an ambulance was trying to get through. Talk about everything converging at once!



Just after traversing the construction zone I had a front tire blow-out with a resounding bang. Luckily we had cell coverage and although Wayne was on his bike cycling towards me, he wasn't too far from the RV. Normally he would have repaired the tube with spares and tools we carry with us, but in this case my tire was torn and needed a replacement. I now have a high end hand-crafted German tire on my wheel.
Struggling with the tire installation
After a brief delay for repair, which coincided nicely with tea time, I was on the last leg of the day into Mount Pearl (Walmart), just west of St. John's.
What, no parking at Walmart?

It is now only a hop, skip and jump of an hour or so to Cape Spear, the most easterly point of North America. This merited cause for celebration so we headed out on foot to dinner at "Around the World" restaurant for fish and chips. Thanks to Matt for the recommendation and excellent directions.

Tuesday, September 11th
In Clarenville: awaiting Hurricane Leslie to pass

Part 2:
We meandered through the remainder of the day in Clarenville by cruising Walmart and Sobey's during the afternoon after the winds had weakened enough to venture from our safe haven at the info centre. Having exhausted the shopping possibilities we headed back to the info centre (wifi is a powerful draw) to catch up on e-mail. Thanks to Jacques Côté for the honourable mention in his weekly Velo Cape Breton newsletter:



"LORI'S DREAM
As you read this, Lori is riding her bike in Newfoundland to complete her Trans-Canada bike tour. She spent a few days in Main-à-Dieu last weekend before taking the ferry on Tuesday Sept. 4th for Port-Aux-Basques to finish it off with an 890km last leg to St. John's. Fall weather has definitely made its way in the Maritimes with the heavy rainfall of last night in Cape Breton. That weather system is now south of Newfoundland and should not affect much Lori's riding in Cornerbrook/Deer Lake area today; it's sunny, 18C but easterly winds of 20 to 40 km/h (headwinds). However, the approaching Hurricane Leslie, whose track is pretty much unpredictable may affect the Maritimes early in the coming week. You're almost there Lori. We all envy your determination and stubbornness.... (your word)"

I briefly considered getting out on the bike for another hour or so early in the evening because of the favourable wind direction, but it was still rather strong with periods of heavy drizzle so I let that idea fizzle out. After a late supper, we departed to head east and be closer to the start point tomorrow. Overnighted in an Irving station parking area and hit the sack early.
Part 1:
The rain began before dawn and the winds ramped up shortly after.  We are watching the flag closely for wind direction and have moved a couple of times this morning to be in the lee of the small building (and not too close to the flagpole in case it comes down).  There is not much traffic on the highway other than the odd big rig. So far the RV has been pretty stable, although a few gusts have rocked her a bit here and there.  It’s noon now and the wind is still fierce but has veered to the north as forecasted. Temperature remains warm and muggy.  The eye of the storm is over Bonavista Bay to the north at the moment and we can actually see a couple of small patches of blue sky!

CBC radio has extended a special morning show into the afternoon to report of the storm.  It sounds like St. John’s has really been hit badly with widespread power outages (CBC is on generator power), many streets closed due to flying debris, roofs and siding damage, overturned vehicles and trees and power lines down.  There is a warning for people to stay off the streets and schools and most businesses are closed.  All ferries are storm-bound, but the garbage collection in St. John’s was on schedule today!  
Ugh - the new shed built to protect the 1984 Corvette took off and landed on it.
(courtesy of 97.5 K-Rock)
  We’ll keep an eye on the wind and try and get into town when it dies down a bit to entertain ourselves with some shopping.  In the meantime, the info centre is open, the wifi is up and running and no one is minding our generator noise.  It’s actually kind of nice to have a relaxing day with nothing planned! 

The forecast looks great for tomorrow and Thursday :).


Monday, September 10th

Distance and Time: 102.2 at 6:28

Route:  on TCH from Terra Nova Park to exit to Come by Chance (just north of Arnold’s Cove)


Getting close!
I would say that today was my most challenging physical day yet on the entire trip due to the terrain and wind.  The hills seemed steep and constant without any flat stretches between.  This may be because even the downhill stretches felt like I was pedalling uphill due to the wind.  I thought yesterday was bad, but I don’t think I have ever cycled in winds like those today.  Thankfully they were mostly dead ahead versus the more tricky cross winds which can push you sideways into traffic or off the shoulder.  All I had to do was get in the easier gears and keep pedalling…..and pedalling.  It was actually enjoyable in a strange sort of way, with a sturdy bike under my butt, a great gear ratio for the hills, super roads, dry weather and lots of fresh air.

Having the touring bike makes the world of difference for me in terms of comfort and confidence. I don’t think I could have cycled much on my road bike today and if I had tried I’m certain it would have been very difficult mentally because of the fear factor (similar to my most mentally challenging days between the Soo and Ottawa because of the road conditions and resultant melt-down).

We are less than 140 kms from St. John’s! The latest info has Leslie making landfall tomorrow morning at 09:00, accompanied by hurricane force winds and a deluge of rain.  Forecasts are predicting it will move off quickly, though, and Wednesday and Thursday forecasts look OK for cycling.  Therefore, we still should be able to make it to St. John’s on Thursday with time to spare to get to the ferry at Argentia for the evening sailing.

We drove back the 35 km to Clarenville after the cycle because it is on higher terrain and not as close to the south coastal area.  We tried the Walmart lot in town but it was pretty windy and exposed there, so are hunkered down tonight in the RV outside the tourist info site, behind but not close to a wall of trees.  It is closed for the night but wifi is still available.
Another interesting place name near Come-by-Chance
Sunday, September 9th



Distance and Time: 131.2 km at 6:46
Route:  on TCH from Notre Dame Junction (junction with hwy 340) to 16 km inside Terra Nova National Park (junction with hwy 301)

Scenes enroute to Gander:

We have seen many, many highway memorials, and this one is the loveliest


The above memorial is for a young local man killed during road construction when the asphalt grader fell on him.  It is a lovely site with his hardhat, picture and night lighting.

My first live moose - a young cow
A beaver home listed with a real estate agent!
My hour long pit stop in Gander turned into two and a half hours, but I was happy to get the blog updated and some e-mail sent (courtesy of Tim Horton’s wifi)
Relics at the Gander Aviation Museum
 
 
Today was mostly sunny and warm, but oh, the wind!  I managed with the road bike to Gambo, about 40 km past Gander.  By that time I wasn’t entirely sure I could control it in the occasional gusts, so switched to my touring bike.  It was much more stable on the exposed flats and downhills, and the gear ratio was way better for some massive hills towards the end of the day.  I am sooooo glad we brought it along.

I changed bikes at this beautiful lookout spot overlooking the town Gambo.  The town was founded by Joey Smallwood’s grand-father, and Smallwood himself was born here.
Overlooking Gambo and an inlet of Bonavista Bay
Gambo River


I learned today that moose are not the only thing to worry about.  I came across a young woman stopped on the side of the road, camera in hand. As I cycled by she said, “Bears, be careful”, and I replied “Oh shit!” (in hindsight I should have at least added a thanks to that expletitive).  When we stopped at the end of the day and I went in to buy ice cream and ask about parking overnight in the lot, the girl said, “Sure, but please don’t leave any garbage around because of the bears.  They’re everywhere.”  Great.  Just what I needed to cap off the end of the trip.  Luckily I learned they were "everywhere" after I had cycled the last hour in the interior of Terra Nova Park at dusk.  At least there was a fair amount of traffic and I hope it continues tomorrow.  I asked about that at the ice cream place too, and although the traffic is usually heavy around here in the summer, they think a lot of people may have been back and forth today to secure their cottages for the upcoming hurricane.

Speaking of which, from the following screenshot it looks like Leslie will hit the Avalon Peninsula late on Tuesday and be well offshore on Wednesday.  Wayne, the meteorologist, assures me the winds we are experiencing now have nothing to do with the hurricane, but another independent low pressure system.  This means tomorrow should be a cycle-able day if the winds are no stronger than today.  We will try and get as much distance in as possible since we will probably have to hunker down on Tuesday and let the winds and hurricane pass.  We may even end up in a hotel if the motorhome is vulnerable.
Latest info on Leslie and Michael....doesn't look good

Although I stopped cycling in the interior of Terra Nova Park, we drove back to the park entrance and are parked tonight in a huge lot adjacent to a diner, fried chicken outlet and ice cream spot. The lot is used for access to some water slides which are closed for the season.  They kind of stick out like a sore thumb in these parts.
  

Saturday, September 8th

Distance and Time:  130.7 km at 5:39

Route:  on TCH from South Brook (junction of hwy 380) to Notre Dame Junction (TCH and hwy 340)



It was a perfect cycling day with temperatures around twenty degrees, light winds, long gentle hills, continuing excellent paved shoulders and pretty scenery through some cottage country.  I had lunch number one 50 km into the ride in Badger and lunch number two at 80 km in Grand Falls.  Grand Falls was a busy spot, and the 20 km between there and Bishops Falls was the only difficult part of the route due to heavy traffic, rumble strips and very reduced space on the shoulders.  Thankfully it was short-lived.  I saw my first moose early this morning, freshly killed by the side of the road.  It is one thing to pass by in a closed vehicle at 100 km/hr but quite another to approach it slowly with no option but to pass by very closely.  I didn’t have it in me to stop and take a picture.  There was quite a bit of blood on the road because its throat had been cut – as Wayne explained, likely by the person who hit it in order to bleed it and therefore make the meat suitable for a passerby interested in filling their freezer.  I remarked that I wouldn’t have had a clue to do that if I had hit the moose, but I guess it is so common in NF that it is a standard courtesy.  Actually one sign I passed today made reference to 660 collisions last year alone!



We passed the halfway point this around noon today.  Wow, it’s hard to believe I only have four more days of cycling.  I think I’ll be ready to call it a day at the end of this leg, and believe me, my butt and associated parts will be quite pleased to take a rest from the saddle.



I finally came across one of the girls Wayne met yesterday, passing Melissa on a hill just before the end of the day.  Michelle remained elusive (i.e. too strong to catch up with) but I did meet her father in his support SUV parked near Wayne at one pit stop.



I’m anxious to check the Atlantic Hurricane Centre site again and to connect with the world via e-mail and the blog.  We didn’t manage to connect to internet in Grand Falls and are therefore hoping to find a spot somewhere in Gander tomorrow.  If Leslie is still on track for landfall late Tuesday or early Wednesday (same time as our estimated arrival on the Avalon Peninsula) we may have to hole up for a day or so and wait it out.




We are cold camping tonight in the parking lot of a closed visitor’s centre just west of Notre Dame Provincial Park.  It is quite similar to the spot in Deer Lake a couple of nights ago and we are plugged into an exterior outlet.  Unfortunately this one was closed when we arrived and the wifi requires a password.  The highway is right next door and although busy early this evening, it has quieted down considerably.  There are a pile of bright stars in the sky, the air is clear, clean and cold and doubtless we’ll have a good nights rest.



Friday, September 7th

Distance and Time:  110.4 km at 6:01

Route:  on TCH from 22 km past Deer Lake to South Brook (junction with hwy 380)



I had a look at Environment Canada’s Atlantic Hurricane Centre this morning and it looks like Leslie and Michael may pose problems early next week.  Leslie is forecast to hit the Avalon Peninsula early Wednesday and Michael will be almost due east a couple of hundred miles at the same time.  Wayne has named our trek as “Lori vs. Leslie”.  We’ll be keeping an eye on them in the next few days.  Hopefully they won’t impact too much of a delay to our arrival in St. John’s or the reservation for the ferry from Argentia on Thursday evening.



The weather today was cool and overcast, with drizzle and very strong headwinds (hence my low average speed).  It was well into the day and I was quite chilled before I figured out how to dress properly again for this weather with layers, long pants, full gloves (neoprene paddling gloves), toe covers, and a helmet liner.



Wayne cycled briefly this morning with two girls from Winnipeg, Melissa and Michelle.  They started in Whitehorse and have cycled and camped most of the country except for some transportation in Manitoba and the train between Ottawa and Montreal as well as the ferry from Labrador a few days ago. Michelle’s Dad is with them on the final leg in NF, providing support in his SUV, so they are only partially loaded now but still camping.  I’m looking forward to meeting them and swapping road stories.



Although this area is new territory on the road, the coasts of White Bay and Notre Dame Bay to the north and east are quite familiar to me.  I spent a couple of winter seasons in my early twenties working on CG vessels in this area providing icebreaking support for the paper vessels inbound to Botwood and assisting longliners in the spring seal hunt. Names like Botwood, Twillingate, La Scie, Springdale, Exploits Islands, Lewisporte, etc. bring back some nostalgic memories.



We are camped tonight at Kona Beach campground just east of South Brook at the intersection of the TCH and hwy 380.  It is a lovely and meticulously maintained site nestled on a lake with camping sites directly on the beach, but internet is unavailable and cell service is virtually non-existent until we reach St. John’s. 
Kona Beach waterfront campsites

Scenes from today: 
Anyone know the meaning of this flag?
Bottom of Halls Bay leading out to the ocean


Picnic causeway - what a view from the house on the bluff!
   
Thursday, September 6th
Distance and Time:  121.2 km at 6:23
Route:  on TCH from junction of hwy 460 (exit to Stephenville) to 22 km past Deer Lake
Port aux Basques to Deer Lake



I am proud to say I got an early start today, getting on the road before 9:00.  I know that is not very early for most folks, but for me only a couple of days after a time change, it is remarkable.  I wanted to get north of the Wreckhouse area mentioned on CBC radio and the environment Canada website since the forecasted winds were from the east gusting up to 110 km/hr.  We couldn’t find any Wreckhouse region on the map but were able to determine that is encompasses the southeast coast from Port aux Basques to Ramea and frequented by high winds (how aptly named).  The remnants of Hurricane Isaac were passing through with the rain and associated winds and the 11:30 ferry to North Sydney was cancelled.  We couldn’t help but wonder about the cyclists who were all headed there today to catch one of the ferries.  Hopefully they didn’t try to cycle through those winds.

We did have better weather throughout the day with some sunshine here and there, but still experienced quite gusty headwinds as the day wore on.  I cycled most of the day on my touring bike with the added weight and stability.  Temperatures were in the high teens – quite pleasant actually, with no sweaty helmet itch or uncomfortable padded shorts.

Traffic was steady today and only heavy between Cornerbrook and Deer Lake.  Most of that part of the TCH was double laned on a twinned highway, and the polite drivers of yesterday became faster and more aggressive.  I can’t figure out why most of them whizzed by in the lane close to me when the lane on their left was empty.  I’ve developed a few hand signals to let them know how they should behave (no, not the finger – just a pointing arm to the left followed by a hand raised in question).

Scenes from today:
Truck stuck in the ditch of the median between opposing lanes - makes me a little uneasy thinking how tired and inattentive these guys may be sometimes.

View of Cornerbrook and Humber Arm
View to the east between Stephenville and Cornerbrook
We have been on familiar roads up to Deer Lake, having cycled from Port aux Basques to Gros Morne National Park a few years ago with a group from Velo Cape Breton.  All I remember is the endless large hills, so I was delighted when the terrain changed after Deer Lake to more flat areas and gentle long slopes.



We are cold camping again tonight, parked in a Visitor’s Info Centre and taking advantage of their wifi.  There is a sign saying no overnight parking but another rig is parked here and they asked inside if it was allright to do so.  She gave us a thumbs up so I guess we’re OK.  We feel like old friends, having met on the ferry and in the campground on the first night out.


Wednesday, September 5th
Distance and Time:  142.5 km at 6:22
Route:  on TCH from Little Paradise RV Park (near Table Mtn) to junction of hwy 460 (exit to Stephenville)

Traffic was quite light all day due to the ferry schedule.  Vessels arrive in Port aux Basques at about 0600 and 1800 so there is virtually nothing on the road in this area after the ferry traffic departs early in the morning and early in the evening, other than some local stuff.  The weather was cloudy but warm and fairly calm.  I tried to get in a healthy distance today since tomorrow may be challenging with high easterly winds and some shower activity.

We saw a lot of nothing along the road today, except for some moose warning signs. I also heard some mysterious rustling in the bush next to the highway a couple of times.  Quite a long section of the TCH is totally fenced off on both sides due to the moose population.

 
Road conditions are good to excellent with paved shoulders.  Methinks NF is no longer a “have-not” province, especially with that expensive fencing. The only difficulty is the long stretches of good quality (meaning deep) rumble strips – great for trucks but they can rattle teeth giggle a cyclist’s bladder empty! 

We met quite a few loaded cyclists heading to the ferry today.  André from Ottawa is an amazing fellow. This is his 18th year on the road with his bike since he retired.  He just accomplished his seventh or eighth cross Canada cycle (he’s done both directions) and he celebrated his 75th birthday earlier this summer in the Adirondacks by completing 7500 km in 75 days this year!  He has also cycled most of Europe and New Zealand.  I can certainly understand his addition (why am I in NF?). He told us he no longer carries all his camping gear (only everything else) and cycles between B&B’s and motels, a credit card being a lot lighter than a tent and associated gear.  His route this year took him and a friend from Victoria to Port Hardy, then on the ferry to Prince Rupert and the northern highway through Dawson Creek.  They stayed north in the prairies, came south along Lake Winnipeg and continued into Minnesota instead of north of Superior.  I guess when you have done it so many times, you try for variety after awhile! André has quite an interesting bike (named Ol’ Yeller) with a belt instead of a chain and only fourteen gears, yet he can shift without moving.  I’m intrigued and must ask Mike Glew more about this system and how it works.

André
Wayne had a bold little visitor when he was parked and waiting for me to finish up the last few km today. 
I have never heard of a black fox
We also came across an interesting ad for septic tanks

Tuesday, September 4th
Distance and Time: 29.2 km at 1:28
Route:  Port aux Basques ferry terminal to Little Paradise Park on TCH



I had a hard time falling asleep last night, full of emotions about leaving Oyster Cove and uncertainty about this extension to the trip with the turn in weather and the extra cost and time factors. I can’t help wonder why getting to the eastern tip of NS is not enough and why I feel I must cycle NF just because it is there.  Stubbornness?  Getting a job finished completely (or not knowing when to call it a day)?  An extra challenge I can’t resist?  Positive messages from my girls when I told them a few days ago and Chris and Kelly this morning have helped set me straight, so now I’m looking forward to it a wee bit (I must say no to the Tuktoyaktuk suggestion, though).



We sailed on the MV Blue Puttees (the following info is courtesy of my friend Eileen: Puttees were the wrappings the soldiers wore around their ankles and calfs, similar to modern gaiters. The blue puttees were worn by the Royal Newfoundland Regiment who were memorialized at Beaumont Hamel, close to the Vimy Memorial in France) to Port aux Basques this morning.  It was actually a lovely crossing in terms of the weather (can you imagine being in shirt sleeves on the upper deck in the Cabot Strait in September?), the crossing being on schedule, and not many people on board.  Marine Atlantic is a bit weird, though, with various services closing in the middle of the voyage and charging $4 for a small ice cream cone.  High prices are something they have in common with BC Ferries, but the similarities end there.




Upper deck lounging

 






Approaching the NF coast

 






Entrance to Port aux Basques

 












Shooting the breeze on the foredeck

Welcome to NF!
 As we approached the NF coast, the sky clouded over a bit, but fortunately cleared a bit by the time we docked and offloaded.  It was still early in the evening so we decided to get a few kms out of the way and I cycled until dusk shortly after 8:00.  It was an absolutely gorgeous cycle up the west coast along the ocean with no sign of people other than a bit of traffic.  The weather looks good for a couple of days (during the scenic west coast part of the trip) and then I may be cycling through some cool wet stuff as we cross the island.
We have a ways to go yet!



Table Mountain area
 


Sunset over the Atlantic

Unfortunately we learned that there is no Rogers service throughout the island, so this will affect how we plan our days.  Wayne will likely cycle with me a bit each morning and therefore stay behind me in the RV most of the day.  That way he is always coming towards me if we are incommunicado and something goes wrong. I will probably use my touring bike on the island since it is heavier and more stable in windy wet conditions and when transport trucks whiz by.  The shoulder I think is fully paved throughout the province, but there will be a lot of truck traffic.



We are at a small little RV park just off the highway, and the stars are awesome!  It’s late with the new time change so I should call it a day.  We haven’t decided whether to actually change our clocks….how lazy is that?