Leg 5 - Regina, Sask. to West Hawk Lake, Man. - June 30 to July 7

Leg 5 total: 931km 
Grand Total: 2917.6km

1st segment - Regina to hwy 5 at TCH in Manitoba

2nd segment - Junction of hwy 5 and 68 to West Hawk Lake, Manitoba

Saturday, July 7th

Distance and Time: 115.7km at 5:08
Route: Beausejour to West Hawk Lake (5km to ON border) on hwy 44

Woke to the usual CBC news from Winnipeg - today it was about a fatality from a fight, yesterday about a fatality from a drug overdose, and on previous days there was everything in between. Getting out of town was OK but hwy 44 had narrowed to a single lane, still with zero shoulders. I noticed a service road off to the side and although it was quite rough, it took me to the junction of hwy 11. I ventured back on only to have another flat. While waiting for Wayne to arrive to help I worked on my raccoon-eye and pale-hand tan. It was hot and luckily I brought repellent with me (I think we've given up on the patches after one try). There was a nice mini paved shoulder for 20km while 44 and 11 merged, but once 11 turned off to the south and 44 continued east the road was rough and narrow. It didn't really matter though, since traffic was extremely light, the topography seemed to change almost immediately and we started to see the western edge of the Canadian shield, pine forests and bogs. Good-bye prairies and hello to the welcome sight of rock outcroppings! This type of terrain should be with us until home.

Wayne cycled with me for a few km then drove the RV to the town of Rennie and came back to meet me.

After Rennie the 44 became even more isolated and there was a bear country sign so I asked him to stay with me. We continued together for about 16km and since we were only a few km from the park campgrounds I felt safe enough to continue on my own. I prayed for no flat tires for either of us and things went smoothly, other than the constant buzzing of huge horse flies about my head. I knew Wayne had a long haul against the wind so I stopped at a store for a break at Penniac Bay, just short of the park campground at West Hawk Lake. What a find - this store was a combination of convenience, plumbing parts and service and a neat gift shop. The owners filled my water bottle, made me tea (they even had stevia available for a sweetener) and let me watch the Wimbledon highlights for a while. Thanks Lori (coincidence that our names match) for the hospitality and letting me hang out in your air conditioned store for a long while.

I continued onto West Hawk Lake and found some hills! I waited for Wayne there, me and bike under the shade in the breeze. When he arrived we continued to the park campground office but unfortunately there were no sites available there or elsewhere in the park closeby, being the weekend. Overnight parking wasn't allowed either, so after pumping out and taking on water we drove to the border. Yippee - Ontario! Those of you of a certain vintage will be familiar with the jingle running through my head - "A place to stand, a place to grow, Ontari- ari- ari- o"! It's an understatement to say I am happy to be here. The visitors info centre was closed and entrance barricaded (what kind of welcome is that) but we'll stop in tomorrow as I cycle back from West Hawk Lake across the border. There are a number of questions to which I hope to get answers for, such as the quality of roads and where I can get my stitches out on Monday (versus getting Wayne to take them out). Anyway, we continued past the info centre and are camped in the wilderness off the side of Gundy Rd, not far from the TCH. I am happy to report that the shoulders on the TCH are paved along the short stretch I'll travel in the morning, and hopefully that will continue for a while towards Kenora.

On EDT and still light out at 10:30!

BTW, my elbow feels great other than a small patch of numv skin. The knee is a different story and I think I'll be making an appointment with the sports medicine clinic in Ottawa.


Friday, July 6th - Happy Birthday Wayne!!

Distance and Time: 59.6km at 2:46
Route: Selkirk to Beausejour

We spent the day in Selkirk shopping and getting caught up with e-mail, etc. (parked at a McCafe) and it was close to 6:00 before we got away with all the other Friday night traffic headed out of town. I followed the route suggested in the book, hwy 204, 409 and 59 to the 44. Now 44 is a four lane divided hwy from Winnipeg, but there were no shoulders, not even an inch! What is it about this province that offers paved shoulders on an extremely quiet road 150km north of the major population centres, and only a pile of loose gravel on major thoroughfares nearer the large cities? Could it possibly be that there is a Conservative MP from the Interlakes region? Anyway, 44 was too busy for my liking and I diverted to a gravel side road. Wayne thought I was a wimp but he did drive back from Beausejour to change my flat which was no surprise on that road. My road bike is not suitable for gravel or rough roads and how I wish I had brought my touring bike either as the main vehicle or as an alternative for rough roads and gravel shoulders. There, I've said what has been on my mind since day 1 of this cycle on the dyke trail - I didn't listen to my intuition, and brought the wrong bike. Heavens, with all the space in the RV I could have brought both and had so much more versatility and safety. Sure, it would have been a little slower, but I would be more comfortable and probably wouldn't have had the wipe-out. OK, glad to have gotten that out of my system. Guess which bike I'm taking from Ottawa to Sydney?

After I abandoned hwy 44 I took the 212, 213, 12 and 215, all back country roads to Beausejour. They were rough and traffic was moderate at times but it was far less intense than 44. Of course this route added some distance, taking twice as long to get into town (we rolled in at 9:30!)  Along the route we saw some interesting sights, such as this Ukrainian church in Cook's Creek:
http://www.winnipegfreepress.com/local/faith-enduring-70094632.html

Cook's Creek Ukrainian Immaculate Conception Church with grotto on quiet country 212 in the middle of nowhere

Once in Beausejour (pop 3000) we went searching for a place to eat. There wasn't much but we found a unique little place called the Copper Pot with a coffee shop in the front, a restaurant in the middle, a sports bar at the back and a patio beyond that. It just kept going on and on!

Our server was very friendly and welcoming and interested in our trip. We had a truly awesome borscht (which I had asked for the recipe) and I finally got a feed of perogies (which I've been meaning to sample while in Manitoba...yum). Wayne's birthday supper was a "big boy burger" which ended up being on the house!

This wonderful and generous gesture ended our day on a real high note. We had struck up a conversation during the meal with Jennifer, the owner, a very interesting and diversified young entrepreneur. Check out her other business endeavours at: www.bisonpromotions.com and www.worldreflections.ca

Wow! How do some people have so much energy? We parked the RV on a side street right in town near the main drag, and nestled down with full bellies and warm feelings about the folks here.


Thursday, July 5th

Distance and Time: 152.8km at 6:01
Route: 20 km past Eriksdale to Selkirk on hwys 68, 222, and 9

I didn't manage to meet my objective last night and actually slept in a bit longer than normal. We had a campfire (our first) and watched a gorgeous full moon rising so I can blame that for not getting to bed earlier. Unfortunately the bugs were really bad and those fantastic repellent patches I bought don't do as well as the spray-on type which Wayne keeps rubbing in.

I had a tailwind form heaven in the morning and clocked 65km in two hours heading east to Lake Winnipeg on hwy 68 with smooth paved shoulders (I mention those a lot, don't I?) and very light traffic. That all changed when we turned south on 222. The road was rough, shoulders non-existant and the cross wind was fierce. We stopped for lunch at a park in Arnes, birthplace of the fmaous Arctic explorer Stefansson. It's really interesting to see all the Finnish and Icelandic names of places and people along the northern route these last couple of days. There was even a small village named "Reykjavik".

So I struggled a bit getting down to Gimli on hwy 222 but traffic was still light and slower on the secondary road. We stopped in Gimli in the late afternoon for a swim on a long gravel beach right in town near the CG station (picture to follow). The water was very cold considering how shallow the lake is and it took me a long time to get submerged, but it was worth it. While getting to the beach we inadvertently stumbled into a wedding ceremony. And we had wondered why a bagpiper had been playing?

Breakwater in Gimli Harbour

the "Gimli Glider"

After some ice cream in Gimli (this is becoming an afternoon habit in the hot weather - I arrived on the prairies lean and hard and will be leaving soft and pudgy. I guess I need those northern ON hills), I decided to put another 30km in. After that point we were only 25km from Selkirk and there was no obvious place to stay nearby so we figured why no press on? We were still refreshed from the swim, the cross wind had died out, I hadn't pushed myself by any means today, it had cooled off, and we would avoid the Friday cottage traffic. It was a no-brainer. Wayne went ahead and found a Walmart so here we sit, parking lot riff-raff again. We'll scurry around in the morning to replenish before getting back on the road in the afternoon. Good timing for shopping as I need to get something for the birthday boy tomorrow. I don't think he would relish a candle on one of my burnt quinoa brownies for his celebration!


Wednesday, July 4th

Distance and Time: 133km at 5:08
Route: Eddystone to 20km past Eriksdale on hwy 68

The morning was cloudy and threatening rain with a few drops here and there, followed by a hot and sunny afternoon. Superb day all around even though the humidex reached 37. Cloudy is better for the cooler temperature and also because I'm getting a weird tan - white feet and hands and thighs, along with raccoon eyes worse than Adrienne's. I wish I could cycle in a bathing suit!

Raccoon eyes!

The highway was similar to 570 in Alberta, excellent shape, and traffic very light. It was totally flat and I had a good tailwind. I think the steep hills of Northern Ontario will come as a big shock! We stopped at midday for a swim at the Narrows just past the bridge dividing the northern and southern parts of Lake Manitoba. I had been dreaming for days of being immersed in cool refreshing water and it was an absolutely delicious feeling. Just have to find more swimming spots at the end of the hot days to make things perfect. I'll be looking for just that on Lake Winnipeg tomorrow evening.

commercial establishment at the Narrows

water fowl at the Narrows

 

Cycled through lots of wetland with a variety of water fowl, and some farming area and grazing cattle. Did I mention how much I love the way they look at us? I especially like the ones with white faces and dark brown or black bodies. Some great photos taken with Wayne's camera will follow when we can download them from the computer.

We drove back to Eriksdale and are staying at a municipal campground tonight. It is basic, without water or electricity, but it it quiet and well maintained and a nice distance off the highway.

We're eating early tonight at 8:00 enjoying a dinner of salmon along with a cold beer. The objective tonight is to go to bed earlier than midnight in order to get on the road in cooler temperatures tomorrow.


Tuesday, July 3rd

2nd installment:

Distance and Time: 103.5km at 4:40
Route: Alexander to Eddystone on hwy 68

We're 25km onto hwy 68 now and stopped for the night just off the road. It was an excellent decision with a great road and hardly any traffic.

P.S. Elbow and knee are much better today and feel almost normal!

1st installment:
Last night was a noisy one parked in Alexander.  Note how close the train is to our camping spot!

We've made a major route change today and are driving 135km north on hwy 5 from the TCH to Ste Rose du Lac where I will continue cycling east on hwy 68. It will mean not being part of the EFI (Every Freaking Inch) club but it will be safe and more scenic. It will break the route, but we'll be starting to head east again slightly northwest of where we stopped. So because of that and cycling a greater distance in a general south east direction in the remainder of the province assuages my guilt at letting the EFI down. Turns out the shoulders on the TCH are only paved in some spots between Brandon and Winnipeg and not at all from Winnipeg to the Ontario border. Wayne stopped in Brandon at the visitors info centre and on his second round of questions they pulled out a book from the back room, "Canada by Bicycle" by Steve Langston, published last year. Well, Manitoba is the only province in which Steve did not cycle on the TCH because, in his words "hwy 1 is notoriously dangerous in many parts of Manitoba with little or no shoulder". He took the northern route which I had been considering, which he says offers safer cycling, more services and better scenery. So I called Travel Manitoba and they pretty much confirmed what we had read. Thanks to Nadine, who provided all the answers to my many questions.

Sure wish I had found this book earlier but also very glad to have it now. He provides all kinds of details on campsites, eating spots, what to see and do, historical tidbits, etc. And as Wayne says, if I had had it before, I would have taken the northern route through Sask, would have had my accident somewhere, else and the outcome definitely would not have been as good! So far today I've logged 77.5km at 3:26 and I hope to get a few more in when we start again.

Heading up to the northern route will be a good idea for another reason - it's too hot to cycle and heading north might cool things down a degree or two. I've actually been doing better than I thought I would in the heat but it's time to bite the bullet and start getting up around sunrise and getting the bulk of the cycle in before noon.


Monday, July 2nd

Distance and Time: 127.3km at 4:53
Route: Redvers, Sask. to Alexander, Manitoba on hwy 2 and 21 north to the TCH

Crossed into Manitoba and the Central time zone! And a warm good-bye Saskatchewan.  You threw us for a couple of loops but at the same time treated us royally.  We loved your maritime friendliness and eager willingness to provide assistance when we needed it. And the roads were quite decent, too, despite the initial few bad km coming into the province.

launching in Redvers

Note the difference in time from yesterday considering  the similar distances, since I had an amazing tailwind most of the day. After crossing the Manitoba border, the paved shoulders disappeared completely. Although the road was good, there was a steady stream of traffic - trucks and big RVs - so I really had to watch carefully and actually stop and walk the bike into the gravel a few times when oncoming and behind traffic met near me. Those very wide, very loose gravel shoulders didn't help my fear factor! So we turned north on 21 which was rough with nothing on the side and heading into the wind. My wonderful 28km/h went down the tubes but there was virtually no traffic. I wasn't sure what I'd see at the TCH so the lovely wide, newly paved shoulders were a very welcome sight.

With that in mind, we think we'll stick with the TCH from here on and hopefully meet some other cyclists doing the same thing. Wayne tells me most of them follow that route, and although the quiet country roads have been a treat, especially seeing the small places, I'm ready for more amenities and maybe even campsites with a swimming hole in this heat. Not so tonight - we are parked in the shade of a ball field near the sleepy town of Alexander. The TCH is a few hundred meters away and the train tracks even closer. I wonder what the night will bring? We'll be firing up the generator and AC an hour before bed to cool things down. Unfortunately we turned north before the town of Souris. I wanted to go looking for the bullet ridden barn doors that have something to do with Louis Real. My dad told me that Mabel's mother was born there in the late 1800's and it was her Dad's barn!

There was no welcome to Manitoba sign or visitor info this morning, just as there was neither when we crossed into Saskatchewan. Another reason to switch from the country roads since we have no camping or road info other than an old map. We got spoiled in BC with big visitor centres in all the towns with tons of info. My arm and leg (mostly wrist and ankle) are swollen. I hope it may have something to do with not taking advil anymore since it has anti-inflammatory benefits. Maybe that and the heat. I'm experiencing the sensation of water dripping down my left calve since the accident, but every time I go to wipe it off it is completely dry - go figure. I must google that the next time we have a good wifi connection!


Sunday, July 1st (Happy Canada Day)


Distance and Time: 125.8km at 6:29
Route: Creelman to Redvers, Sask. on hwy 33 and 13

It was a slow day because of headwinds and frequent breaks for stretching and watering down.  It was hot, but not unbearably so, and I could feel my body getting back to normal as the day wore on.  I was able to use my left arm and hand almost normally, and the knee is not as swollen and stiff as it was yesterday.  Thanks to everyone who sent their wishes and hopes for a speedy elbow recovery :).

launching on Canada Day

 

Hwy 33 was rough most of the way, but hwy 13 is excellent and I hope it continues into Manitoba (only 20 km away at the moment).  There was a fair bit of traffic, even though a holiday Sunday, because this area is booming in a similar fashion to what we noticed in North Dakota when driving through in May.  There are countless drill rigs spotting the landscape, lots building activity in the small towns and many tanker trucks heading back and forth.

southern Saskatchewan landscape

We cruised through Redvers upon our arrival and found an unsecrued wifi near the town office, so here we sit in the parking lot.  Apparently our cell coverage should click back in at the Manitoba border so at least we'll have e-mail capability.

Wayne cooked up his seafood pasta (or fettucini a la Wayne as John Verde named it) tonight and we dined elegantly as the fireworks popped in the sky on the other side of town (maybe four streets over).

Saturday, June 30th

Distance and Time: 113.3km at 4:26
Route: Regina to Creelman on Hwy 33

2nd Installment:
Thanks again Sam.  We stayed in a municipal campsite near Creelman last night in a grove of bushes beside the cemetery.  Hung out with many horse flies and a few local campers and had a good yarn.  They told me about "banana boats", a camping treat similar to "s'mores".  You split a banana and fill it with marshmallows and chocolate chips, cover with foil and bake over an open fire.  These I will try!  The moon was almost full, a fresh breeze cooled things off, and I zonked out for a good and healing sleep.

Campsite near Creelman, Sask.

1st Installment:
Sam here again. They won't have any cell coverage or internet for a few days, so Mom will be updating through me when she can get to a payphone. (Mostly because Grandpa Ken worries if he doesn't see a blog update almost every day!).

She says she had a good massage this morning which helped with the neck, and they left at 2:30 in great conditions with a fresh breeze behind. Her body is still sore from the fall, but the elbow feels OK. Her knee is sore, so she's going to take care of that and get it looked at if needed. There will also be a new picture to come of the banner that she made (jury-rigged from the Walmart sewing section) to velcro on her back!

launching from the Hoffman's in Regina