Leg 11 - Moncton, NB to Sydney (Main-a-Dieu), NS; August 26th to 31st

Leg 11 Total 539.5 km
Grand Total 6996.5 km
62 Cycle Days

Leg 11 - Moncton, NB to Main-a-Dieu (Sydney), NS

Friday, August 31st
WE DID IT!!
Distance and Time: 18.8 km at 0:57
Route:  Oyster Cove to Main-a-Dieu via Brickyard Rd. and Main-a-Dieu Rd.

I awoke with a sore head and tired body – the head due to the celebration the night before and the tiredness due to the air gun and roofing which started before daybreak on the house construction next door.  I could not legitimately complain though, since I was offered a quiet bedroom inside and two of the guys we were celebrating with last night were working on the house.

The morning was spent catching up on business, banking, e-mail and the blog.  Then we cycled the last short leg to Main-a-Dieu and the Big Wave Café for lunch. I had forgotten how hilly that little trek is!  We were joined for lunch by Vanessa, Lacey and Mark, Georgina, Elizabeth and Mary – and hosted by Amanda, the new manager of the café.  The food was delicious and deserves a repeat for sure, especially that homemade coconut cream pie.  

End of the trek to the Atlantic

After lunch we cycled down to the boardwalk and beach for a swim (me and the kids).  It seemed like a fitting thing to do to mark the end of the trip.  Scenes from the afternoon:

Three generations and Wayne (Lacey, the fourth generation, was in the water)

We arrived back in Oyster Cove late in afternoon for a brief turn-around and then headed to Buckley Beach (on the route today towards Main-a-Dieu) for fireworks to kick off the local weekend fundraiser ball tournament in which the neighbours are playing and we will watch, having graciously (I hope) declined to play.  They would lose for sure if I played on the team.  It was a lovely but cool evening, but there was a big bonfire to warm up to and the fireworks were pretty good.  It was great to see how many generations were on the beach together enjoying the evening.

I have done a comparison of NF costs – first with the RV and two ferry transits at Port aux Basques; second with the RV and the Port aux Basques ferry transit to the island and the longer ferry transit from Argentia on the way back; and third carrying our bikes and luggage on the ferry, renting a car on other side and returning via Port aux Basques.  It appears that the two options of taking the RV are about equal and the third option is more expensive due to accommodation costs.  The 11 hour Argentia ferry ride is slightly more expensive but sounds very appealing with an overnight bunk.  We haven’t taken the plunge yet and made reservations.

Thursday, August 30th
Time and Distance:  98.2 km at 4:10
Route:  Ferguson Lake (Grand River) to Albert Bridge (Oyster Cove on the Mira River), NS via the Fleur-de-Lis Trail, hwy 327, Hornes Rd. and Brickyard Rd.

I continued along the Fleur-de-Lis Trail through some isolated territory with only a few small settlements and virtually no traffic.  There was a brisk tail wind again all day so even the fairly steep and rolling hills were not much of a challenge.  Somewhere near Framboise a pick-up pulled alongside me and the friendly couple asked me where I was coming from.  I was at a loss for words so just blurted out "across the country".  Jessie and Neil promptly invited me in for tea in the house up the road but I don't think my departure point had anything to do with it.  This was simply Cape Breton hospitality.  So l parked my bike strategically out front in since Wayne was cycling back to meet me, and went inside to visit.  Their house is a charmingly restored place in which Jessie was born.  Wayne showed up shortly after me and we had a lovely visit in the back sunroom overlooking the water.  Tea and biscuits (and squares and zuchini loaf went down well for a mid morning snack)!

Jessie and Neil

The remaining part of the Fleur-de-Lis took me onto hwy 327, the road from Sydney to Gabarus.  I took the short side road into Gabarus to see if anyone was around at Rising Tide Expeditions.  We have kayaked with these folks a number of times and are hoping to get out with them again for a short trip sometime while here.  Unfortunately there was no one around, but my bike and I hung out at their place for awhile just taking in the familiar sites.

Coming up to Marion Bridge and the Mira River was quite a treat, not only to see the Mira again but also because this is very familiar cycling territory for Wayne and I.  I met him on Hornes Rd. and we continued together to the junction with hwy 23 and Albert Bridge.  As we cycled over the crest and headed to Mullins (the pit stop in Albert Bridge) and the RV parked at the back, we noticed someone in a truck inspecting it.  Our first thoughts were uh oh,  perhaps we shouldn't have parked there, but on closer inspection it was Joe Forgeron, our neighbour from Oyster Cove!!  Man, it was so good to see him.  After a good chat, Joe continued home to put his beer in the freezer, and we headed into Mullins to check out the bakery and the new NSLC outlet.  I switched bikes to handle the upcoming gravel road down into Oyster Cove and Wayne continued on ahead.

First glimpse of Oyster Cove

We were parked and settled in no time at all at Joe's, with electricity, internet and view of the cove including a nice angle of our old house.  Molly (Tessa's pal) greeted us with enthusiasm and Danica and Morgan seem all grown up now. Sabrina arrived home shortly after and we enjoyed more of their hospitality with supper and showers. The evening kind of swung into a celebration of sorts with Mark and Sherry and Luke dropping by and all of us making our way over to Georgina and Lionel's place alongside Joe and Vanessa's.  This was Oyster Cove as we remember it!  We were surrounded by so much good cheer, a good dose of ribbing, congratulations and even a bottle of bubbly to celebrate (thanks Sabrina).

Wednesday, August 29th
Distance and Time: 132.6 km at 5:27
Route:  Antigonish to Ferguson Lake (Grand River), NS via TCH (104), hwy 4 to the Canso Causeway and Port Hawksbury, 104 to St. Peters, then hwy 247 and Fleur-de-Lis Trail

It's amazing what a different day can bring! We overnighted in a Walmart parking lot in Antigonish with rain pattering on the roof throughout the night and awoke to a day of bright sunshine and a cool brisk breeze.  The sunshine and  strong breeze on the hind quarter remained for the entire day. Temps were cool, though, with the nor'easterly wind, and it was the first time in several weeks we donned warmer clothing.

We crossed the causeway shortly after noon and headed to DQ where we had arranged to meet Vanessa and Joe (our neighbours in Oyster Cove). They were there to meet their kids Lacey and Mark, who were coming back from Dartmouth after spending some time with Joe's parents. It was great to see them all again, as well as Olga and her friend Carmie.  Mark and Lacey enjoyed exploring the motorhome and have been invited for a sleepover this weekend when we park at their place. 

Looking back on the causeway to Cape Breton

Joe and Vanessa, Lacey and Mark

On our very first day of the trip, way back on May 25th from Victoria to White Rock, I mentioned in the blog that we met a couple on the ferry who spend their summers in St. Peters. We struck up a conversation and learned they were just starting a cross country motorcycle trip. They invited us to drop by their place when we came through. Well, we found their house from the description of the pink lawn chair and Canadian flag across from the church. So we sauntered up the walkway to the door when Donna recognized us and bounded out to greet us. What a lovely spot they have, with a southern view of the ocean across the back of the house. Donna gave us a tour of their home and we agreed we would be fighting over who did the dishes with the kitchen window looking out over the water.

 

We exchanged stories about our trios across the country. It took Donna and Marty eleven days, and I am on day 61 of the actual cycling trip. A 6:1 ratio, not bad!

Other scenes from the day:

You know you're in Nova Scotia when you see this

Who are these "Lower River Inhabitants"

St. Peters Canal

View to the east starting out on the Fleur-de-Lis Trail

Picturesque graveyard overlooking the sea in the setting sun

Sun setting on Ferguson Lake with not one home on its shores

I managed to get in a healthy distance today even with all the socializing, cycling a few kms past Grand River before Wayne caught up with me at Ferguson Lake. It would have been a lovely place to park overnight with the sunset and full moon, but it didn't come with cell coverage! So we headed back to the village of Grand River until our phones worked again, since I wanted to touch base with Sam and see how day one went on the drive from Ottawa to Thunder Bay (and teachers college next week).  We stopped on a side street across from a cemetery near the main road. I think three cars have passed by in two hours!

We are starting to discuss the real possibility of cycling NF.  Wayne, being the pragmatic guy that he is, asked me if I would forever regret not adding it onto the trip.  I must admit I probably would.  There is nothing terribly pressing calling us home other than a golf tournament for Wayne and a book club meeting for me (sorry ladies), we are here and could be poised to go fairly quickly, we are in shape, and it really only adds eight or nine days onto the trip.  It is rather exciting to contemplate!

Tuesday, August 28th
Distance and Time:  61.2 km at 2:55
Route:  New Glasgow to Antigonish, NS via Merigomish Rd., TCH (104), hwy 4, Main St. in Antigonish to hwy 4 again

We had a warm send off about mid-morning from Janet, Joan and Valerie, after Janet and I swapped gluten free beer and bread. Dugald (another brother-in-law) and Barb live just down the road so we stopped in to see them for a brief visit, promising to come for longer on our way back.

It's nice to be on familiar territory again today, but it was wet slog in showers on the TCH to Antigonish, where I gladly pulled off to meet Wayne and dry off in the Superstore parking lot. I ended up frittering away the dry period of time during the afternoon with a long lunch, two cups of tea, and grocery shopping (which I can never accomplish quickly).  My lah-dee-dah attitude did not pay off, and I’m embarrassed to say my afternoon cycle started after 4 p.m. Of course the rain really began to come down then.  I managed to get through town (a very busy spot with StFX ramping up for the school year) and stopped on the other side where Wayne joined me to wait it out.

The good thing was that we stopped outside an internet café which, although closed, offered free wifi.  The bad thing was that it continued to rain buckets.  There seemed to be some clearing late in the day so I attempted to get out again.  I made it to the junction where I needed to join the TCH again, but with low light conditions, impending darkness, rain and traffic I decided it wasn’t a good idea to continue. So we turned back to the Walmart parking lot and spent a quiet night with a few other rigs

Monday, August 27th
Distance and Time:  130.4 km at 5:43
Route:  Northport to New Glasgow NS via hwys 366, 6, 106 (causeway from Pictou), Abercrombie Rd. and hwy 4

We started the day off with Marilyn's tasty homemade museli followed by a kayak outing in their tandem. It made for a late cycling start and consequently a late finish to the day but it was well worth it to be out on the water paddling again after such a long time. A big thanks to Marilyn and Bruce for their wonderful hospitality and sharing so much with us.

Prep for the kayak trip
 

Kayaking Northumberland Strait on a beautiful morning

It was a hot day on the road but it was not humid and a stiff breeze helped with the heat, especially when at my back. Traffic varied in terms of volume and was consistenly polite, slowing down to stay behind me if necessary and always giving a wide berth. This is the best example of motorist consideration since the beginning of the trip.

I cycled through quite a few villages as well as long stretches of quite country roads. The ocean was almost always in my view to the left and the hills seemed to be consistently on the incline rather than decline. There were no flat stretches that I recall!  This area is a little familiar as we cycled part of it in 2009 on the NS tip-to-tip cycle from Yarmouth to Sydney.

Scenes from today:

The famous summer camp

Notice the colour of the pavement - we are across the Strait from PEI

Is this the one Anne Murray has been complaining about?

Typical view on my left today

Gathering of cormorants off the Pictou Causeway

View to the west from the causeway

We are staying the night in the driveway of Gerard's place (Wayne's brother-in-law and long time friend) and have been warmly welcomed by both him and Janet. It was also nice to see Dot and Joan, whose homes share the same large driveway.

We had lots of space here

Sunday, August 26th
Distance and Time:  98.3 km at 4:16
Route:  Dieppe, NB to Marilyn and Bruce's cottage (Northport, NS) via hwy out of Moncton, TCH to Salisbury and Auluc, hwys 16, 970 and 366 into NS

Wayne was up early to play with the girls, and after a feed of Étienne’s pancakes (undoubtedly the best I’ve tasted) we departed late in the morning. I cycled on hwy 106 before getting onto the TCH for the stretch to Sackville and across the marshy low area leading into NS.  This area reminded me of our first day on the trip when we cycled on the dyke area from Tsawassen to White Rock.  However, it came with a wicked cross wind on my right tossing me towards traffic every now and again (wide fully paved shoulders were a godsend here).  The breeze turned into a wonderful tail wind when I turned at Aulac onto hwy 16 towards the Confederation Bridge to PEI. 

I turned east for the last leg of the trip along the Northumberland Strait towards Marilyn and Bruce’s cottage. 

Northumberland Strait on coastal hwy 366

Marilyn and I taught ESL together in Ottawa about ten years ago, and she and Bruce live in Kanata most of the year.  They built their cottage here about eight years ago and what a spot!  It is tranquil with a fabulous view of the ocean – a real oasis of relaxation.  

Everything was so scrumptious

One red lawn chair here and another overlooking the sea

 

First swim in the Atlantic

We started the evening with a refreshing swim followed by a welcome and delicious supper with fresh goodies from the garden.  It was such a beautiful setting on the porch looking out over the water.  We caught up on news and were then treated to a couple of episodes of “Nurse Jackie” as the evening wore on.  Anyone who enjoyed the series “Six Feet Under” will like this one.  We can’t wait to get home and download more from Bruce. 

We didn’t get out on the kayak this evening, but it is sure beckoning for a quick trip in the morning.