Leg 7 - Kakabeka Falls to Echo Bay, ON - July 14 to 20

Leg 7 Total: 770.4 km
Grand Total: 4220.3 km

Leg 7 - Kakabeka Falls to Echo Bay (Thunder Bay to the Soo)

Friday, July 20th

Distance and Time: 107.2 km at 4:55
Route: Pancake Bay Provincial Park to Echo Bay (20km east of the Soo)

I started off today feeling sluggish and stiff in the lower back and knee. Maybe my body is telling me it needs a rest. Took a break at 45km and a wrap with peanut butter and banana did wonders. The next 30km into the Soo were much better, even with another couple of good hills - the last doozer there just to remind cyclists that they weren't finished with Lake Superior yet! The views were great again north of the Soo and I was sorry to say good-bye to the great lake. There are many sport I would like to return to explore.

The hwy north of the Soo was without much of a shoulder and quite rough - about the worst we have experienced in Ontario and that coupled with the pre-weekend cottage traffic made things a bit hairy. Luckily we were treated to paved shoulders for a bit outside the city but entering and exiting the city was dicey. We made a pit stop at Velorution, a cool cycle shop.

Velorution bike shop in the Soo

Thanks to the staff there for advice on the route and some fine tuning on the bike, as well as free wifi. We decided with their input, not to replace the de-railer cable Mike in Nipigon used for the brake cables, simply because if it is working best not to meddle with it. We did buy some brake cable just in case though. We also asked about the seat position and adjusted the angle slightly in the hopes of relieving pressure on my "saddle sores" (I know, this is TMI as my kids would say - too much information). Anyway, hopefully things will remain intact for the next week or so and then I can pester my buddy Mike Glew to have a look at the bike and advise on the new handlebars, etc.

We also hit Walmart Foods for some re-provisioning. What a culture shock! Having spent most of the summer in quiet out of the way surroundings, I think I would be happy to live far from big-box mega stores and their crowds and traffic.

On the way out of Sault Ste. Marie the road look familiar and I realized we've completed a loop. We pulled into the Soo on this very same hwy during the early afternoon on May 10th and I remember thinking I wouldn't relish cycling that highway and there must be another way out of the city for cycling.

Anyway, I got through it to 17B and Echo Bay and will re-join 17 tomorrow. The terrain has definitely changed now that we're following Lake Huron. It's flat! And on another positive note we are over the hump in terms of hills, and on the home stretch to Ottawa now!

Camped tonight on a First Nations park in Echo Bay

Thursday, July 19th

HAPPY BIRTHDAY to Caleb and Jackie!

Distance and time: 134 km at 6:03
Route: south of Wawa to Pancake Bay provincial park on hwy 17

There is no way to describe today other than awesome. The scenery was stunning along Lake Superior, the weather was perfect, the hills were varied (Wayne got a particularly long and nasty one which I only descended), the traffic was light and I swam twice! My cycling seemed to take on a relaxing and almost mesmerizing tone today. I pushed up the hills as usual, but in between them just kind of meandered at a slower pace, enjoying the views and not worrying at all about traffic. Call it a natural high, I guess. Our first stop was at Old Woman Bay in Lake Superior provincial park.

Old Woman Bay, can you see her profile?

Outhouse sign at Lake Superior provincial park. "Digestive by-products" is a new one for me, but if the shoe fits...

Our second stop was at Katherine Cove, still in the park. I swam and scarfed down lunch while Wayne joined a work related conference call. I felt sorry for him while I was swimming in crystal clear water. Lake Superior is cool, no doubt, but very refreshing and not nearly as frigid as Lake Winnipeg at Gimli.

Katherine Cove - first swim of the day

Other views today while on the road:

One of many gorgeous views today

gorge at Montreal River's hydro-electric plant

view looking back at afternoon tea break

We stopped at Pancake Bay provincial park at the end of the day for a swim and supper. The park is close to the location of the Edmund Fitzgerald sinking and there is a look-off point for viewing it. Again, my biggest decision of the day was whether to enjoy a beer or a swim first - this time I opted for a beer. The water seemed a bit cooler than earlier in the day and both times when I submerged I expected the briny taste of salt water in my mouth, only to be surprised with a fresh cool sensation. I guess my mind was making a connection between the horizon and the sea. Wayne only dipped his big tow in the water!

We decided not to stay in the park overnight and stopped down the road at a quiet abandoned gas station/store. Traffic has virtually come to a standstill (too many night-time moose warnings), the stars are out, and it's time to hunker down.

Wednesday, July 18th

Distance and time: 144.7km at 6:20
Route: White Lake Provincial Park to 18km south of Wawa

It was a cooler cloudy day, great for cycling. The terrain was less challenging than yesterday, consisting of mostly rolling hills and some flatter sections. I'm really glad I took this route as the truck traffic is lighter, the hills are not as daunting as I thought (they look far worse from a car), the scenery is great and the long lonely stretches are quite meditative.

We passed through White River early in the day and stopped at the Visitor's Centre where we met some fellow cyclists from Ottawa, Mike McGoldrick and his wife. Mike has a website about cycling in Ottawa and touring in Ontario and Quebec (www.gobiking.ca). What luck - it could be a good resource for our upcoming leg in Quebec.

White River's claim to fame is that it is the actual birthplace of the real Winnie the Pooh! A photo op was a must.

White River - birthplace of Winnie the Pooh

Winnie's story

Just before we hit Wawa towards the end of the day, I passed this important signpost and had to take a photo.

1000km into Ontario and not halfway through the province yet!

We had a long descent followed by a steeper incline coming into Wawa.

View looking back to the west from Wawa

The town is home to another important icon, one that I first saw as a young teenager travelling west with my parents. I should ask my Dad for that first photo of me and the famous goose.

Another TCH icon

I felt I had a little juice left in the tank at Wawa so cycled another few km to get a headstart on tomorrow. Wayne likens me to a horse who smells the barn and picks up his trot, meaning I sense being close to home and liven up my pace. Yes, I am looking forward to being home and taking a break on familiar turf. I'm starting to feel a bit like a machine, i.e. fuel in (I'm eating constantly), energy out, rest for eight hours and start the cycle again.

We're staying by the side of the hwy tonight at an historical spot commemorating the Michipicoten River canoe route, an important link of the fur trading route between Lake Superior and James Bay.

"campsite" tonight by the Michipicoten River, an old fur trading canoe route

Tuesday, July 17th

Distance and time: 151.6km at 7:14
Route: Schreiber to White Lake Provincial Park on hwy 17

We didn't park in the greatest spot last night as jackhammers and pavement cutters started up close by before 7:00am. I managed to doze through some of it despite the rude awakening, though. Funny what the body can shut out when it needs to sleep.

Otherwise it was a gorgeous day with sunshine and temps in the mid-twenties. I cycled by the towns of Terrace Bay and Marathon and was sorely tempted to cruise around both spots even though they were off the hwy. Terrace Bay looked like almost every house had a glimpse of Lake Superior and both spots had public beaches. Here are a couple of scenic photos from those areas.

The hills came fast and furious for most of the day and then toward late afternoon the hwy leveled out a bit as it veered away from the lake after Marathon. There were a couple of doozers but for the most part the hills were a welcome diversion. I was definitely using core muscles and instead of "pedal to the metal" running through my head on the up slopes, I was thinking "belly-button to the spine" as the Pilates teacher always says. And with a bit of a headwind I didn't have to white knuckle it on the brakes to control my descents on the down slopes like yesterday. We pulled into this pretty campground late in the day and once we were settled my biggest decision was whether to have a beer before or after a swim (I opted for after)!

Some observations: I sure wish vehicles without daytime running lights would switch their lights on. As I'm gauging the traffic behind me in relation to oncoming traffic it is really only headlights which are visible for any distance, especially in cloudy conditions. We sure are a country of U-haulers! I have seen hundreds of every shape and size this summer, and we haven't yet reached the peak season of dropping kids off at university. I still see the occasional banana peel on the roadway, but more often than not we are seeing half-full water bottles with what looks like ginger ale in them. Guess what it really is (hint - truckers are on a tight schedule and don't like to stop for a pee)!


Monday, July 16th

Distance and time: 95.6km at 5:03
Route: Nipigon to Schreiber on hwy 17

2nd Installment:
Although I had planned on making it to Terrace Bay today, I didn't launch from Nipigon until after 1:00 and by the time I pulled into Schreiber I was cold, wet and hungry. It was 8:00pm by that time and the RV beckoned to call it a day. I'm only about 10km from Terrace Bay so don't feel too bad about not making it there.

It's been a challenging day in terms of weather and to a lesser extent terrain. The first leg on the bike was wet but warm with a few hills. I had over dressed so took a couple of layers off for the next leg and ended up being soaked and cold by 58km into the afternoon. At that point I was looking forward to hills to get my body temp up. I took a long break in the RV then to warm up and dressed appropriately for the last leg into Schreiber. It was challenging with a few good hills but surprisingly I enjoyed them and the varied terrain. Traffic was light (post weekend) and the shoulders were decent for the most part, varying from narrow to wide and everything in between.

Even in the gloomy conditions (with a flashing red tail light for safety) the scenery was spectacular and would have been truly awesome in the sunshine. Even so, I took a couple of photos and hopefully tomorrow we will see some sun and get some better shots.

Near Rossport - kind of looks like the Gulf Islands

This weather has been a bit of a shock after so many hot summer days since Regina, but it has made me appreciate the dry sunny days and I'll try not to complain about the heat again!

I passed the town of Rossport with some regret as I had my heart set on doing a few hours of kayaking there and checking out real estate. But with the weather conditions and the late hour we likely wouldn't have found much open anyway. I will therefore add Rossport to my list of things to see next time.

Wayne had a fall coming up a hill west of Schreiber. His chain came off as he was changing to an easier gear and he couldn't get unclipped. And I couldn't seem to get unclipped to stop for him, so watched helplessly in my mirror as he took the fall to the left onto the pavement as a transport truck came up from behind. Fortunately he wasn't scraped up (maybe a bruise on his hip) and righted himself before the truck passed.

As I mentioned earlier, I wasn't too sure about my reach on this new set-up. Changing gears was fine but the brakes are not as sensitive as I'm used to, and to control myself down some of the declines I really had to grip hard. My arms have muscle groups I was probably never aware of, and I bet I'll be sore tomorrow.

We've noticed some billboards for the "Casque Isle trail" and must remember to check it out further, it's a 50km coastal trail on Lake Superior between Terrace Bay and Rossport and definitely an item to add to my bucket list!

We are parked just off the highway at an abandoned gas station site in Schreiber, along with a mega motorhome rig beside us. Just finished a feed of chicken stir-fry and a bottle of 2007 Malbec. Life is good!

1st Installment:
We picked up the bike last night, with new handlebars, gear shifters and brakes.  I'd like to pass along a huge thanks to Mike for his time and effort.  He wouldn't even charge us for his labour!  The fit won't be the same in terms of reach and comfort (so much for my Bike Fit physio session with Mary Patterson last year which resulted in my bike seat and handlebars being precisely arranged for my reach and cycling style), and we may have to stop in Sault Ste. Marie for some more fine tuning, but my Cycle Canada book states that the bike shop there is the best in Canada.  Luckily most of my fittings could be transferred over albeit with a little jury-rigging (odometer, mirror, etc.).  This experience points to another reason why I should have brought both bikes with me.  I could have stored the road bike and hopped on the touring bike and continued almost without interruption yesterday!

It is approaching 11:00 a.m. and we are still in Nipigon awaiting some abatement in heavy rain showers.  The visitors centre has wifi, so we are able to keep an eye on the weather radar and it should ease off sometime around noon. I could, of course, cycle through this weather; guess I'm feeling a bit wimpy :).

Sunday, July 15th

Distance and time:  75.6 km at 3:21
Route:  Amethyst Harbour Rd. to Nipigon via hwy 11/17

We set had a communal breakfast with Ashley and Julia and set off fairly early this morning due to the heat.  With my new triathalon shorts (made for swimming and quick dry with little padding) and short haircut, I was all set for the day. The shoulders were good until Dorion but then dwindled to almost nothing as usual.  I'm getting used to it, though, and find the traffic is pretty polite most of the time.

launching with our new buddies

I was slightly ahead of the girls most of the morning, but things went downhill around noon as I limped 25 km into Nipigon without the use of any of my higher gears.  My rear shifter doesn't work, and the problem is more than a broken cable.  It looks like the whole brake and shift lever mechanism is shot. I guess I've had too many falls with this bike and it was just a matter of time.  Fortunately we didn't have to go back to Thunder Bay as we found a guy named Michael Elliot, owner of Epic Adventures (www.epicadventures.ca).  Mike has a shop for repairing his own gear - bikes, kayaks, skiis, etc. - and first advised we would have to go back to Thunder Bay.  Then he had a quick look around and happens to have a set of handlebars and shifters intact which he can switch with my broken set.  He was heading out on a group tour this afternoon but graciously agreed to work on my bike this evening.  Hopefully I'll be on the road tomorrow.

So we said good-bye to Ashley and Julia in the hopes that we'll meet them again between here and Sault Ste. Marie. We are camped at a genuine RV site with laundry, water, electricity and internet, and are just heading down to wade in the creek.

Saturday, July 14th

Distance and time: 67.1km at 3:04
Route: Kakabeka Falls to Amethyst Harbour Rd. at TCH (hwy 11/17)

2nd Installment
After Luc's big breakfast, we got on our way. By the time we made it back to Kakabeka Falls and unloaded it was past noon. As we transited the city we stopped for an oil change, bike clothes and parts (there is a Fresh Air Experience store here!), groceries, a haircut (Lori) and a detour to the Terry Fox monument, so it was after 6:00 before we got going at the other end of the city on Lakeshore Dr.

An important icon on the TCH just east of Thunder Bay

Lucky for us we met Ashley Brown and Julia Fisher at the monument. These intrepid girls just graduated from UVic and are cycling from Victoria to St. John's carrying all their gear. They are the most efficiently loaded cyclists we have met to date.

Julia and Ashley, our overnight guests

We passed along the info on Lakeshore Dr. (vs the TCH) and then met them on it. Wayne did some recco ahead and by the time we got to Amethyst Harbour Rd. the rain was falling and thunder rumbling. We invited them in for a late supper and an overnight bunk. We are happy to see the space used and I think they are happy for a dry bed! We are all down for the night now and Wayne has instructions to do with his snoring :).

1st Installment
After a couple of totally relaxing and much appreciated days unwinding at "camp" with Kathy and Luc we reluctantly hit the road again. This is the first time I haven't been chomping at the bit to get back on the road after a break.  Perhaps it has something to do with the upcoming hills and heat and uncertainty about the road, but I think it is also related to the complete relaxation and warmth we've experienced these last couple of days at Reta Lake with the Paradis.  I will add more once I have internet access again (in the meantime Adrienne is updating the blog with notes from my BB and cell phone pictures - Sam is on vacation out west), but for now I must mention the awesome hospitality, food and company we enjoyed since Wednesday evening. Kath's mom, Marie and her sister Janice were visiting so it was great to hang out with them as well, and to meet some of the generous and funny neighbours.

Hanging out at "camp"

We were treated to a feed of freshly caught pickerel and bass thanks to neighbours Karen and Terry, and lots of Luc's gourmet home cooking throughout our stay. Kathy called a local bike shop and got the latest and best advice for transiting the city taking into account construction and traffic restrictions. We were introduced to a portfolio of entertaining letters from their adopted son "Porky" and feel we got to know a bit of his quirky personality.

Porky

One of Porky's letters

OK, you're wondering who is this Porky guy?  Well, if I have the story straight, Kathy and Luc hosted a pig roast at camp last summer for other cottage owners in the area, and one of the neighbours created "Porky" and parked him at the top of the road into their camp. Porky disappeared at the end of the evening, though, and they haven't seen him in person since.  He has sent regular letters home, though, letting Kath and Luc know he is OK and filling them in on all his adventures with many photos included.  He went out trick or treating on Hallowe'en, saw a dentist shortly after, was out hunting with the guys, sat on Santa's knee at Christmas, spent time with the mayor of Thunder Bay, had a girlfriend and drank too much beer a few times.  Quite a guy, eh?  Anyway, they hope he shows up at this year's pig roast which will take place on August 25th.  Stay tuned and I'll let you know about the long awaited reunion!

Leg 6 - West Hawk Lake, Man. to Kakabeka Falls, ON - July 8th to 11th

Leg 6 total: 532.3km
Grand total: 3449.9km

Leg 5 - West Hawk Lake, Manitoba to Kakabeka Falls, Ontario

Wednesday, July 11th

Distance and time: 114.2 km at 4:48
Route: Upsala to Kakabeka Falls

Yay, halfway there!

Cycled today in three segments but the last was quite hot and hilly so should've started earlier - an ongoing and unrealized intention so far as you know.

We passed into EDT this morning, and also the watershed divide.

EDT, another welcome sign of home

Near the town of Raith, an interesting fact!

Traffic was a little heavier and the paved shoulders diminished to about a foot wide, except for tantalizing little random sections where it widened out nicely. Most of the road was fairly new in terms of pavement so it is strange that an extra foot or two wasn't added to the sides. Maybe Ontario really is becoming a have-not province.

Stopped for lunch in Shabaqua and fortunately from there to Kakabeka the shoulders were paved a couple of metres wide. Yippee! We also met Sebastian in Shabaqua and cycled with him to Kakabeka. He is originally from Venezuela and now lives in Toronto, and is doing the whole nine yards (Victoria to St. John's). We shared some great laughs and stories over a beer (young hot thirsty men don't say no to a cold beer, now do they?)

Sebastian and his well equipped bike

Following Sebastian - he can take photos while cycling (more dexterous than me)

Sebastian's bike is a Trek touring model and his gear was compact and organized, just like I would do it if I was twenty years younger :) .

Did a quick turnaround at Kakabeka Falls and headed SW down country roads to Reta Lake and Kathy and Luc's "camp". It will be wonderful to take a break in this heat, with a cool lake beckoning!

Kakabeka Falls

Tuesday, July 10th

Distance and time: 148.5 km at 6:19
Route:  from 40 km west of Ignace to Upsala, ON on hwy 17

2nd Installment
We had the Ignace beach all to ourselves and enjoyed a nice little dunk before lunch and heading back on the hwy. 

We had the beach all to ourselves

Ignace lawn art

Unfortunately there were 18km of construction coming out of Ignace and although traffic was light, the surface of the pavement was very rough and there were long sections of gravel. I just had to be careful and slog through it, but it did slow me down. Late in the afternoon I passed a cyclist with a trailer whom we had seen west of Brandon. Wayne and the RV weren't too far ahead so I invited him in for a cold beer and to swap stories of on the road.

Next time Marc cycles across the country he will go for a lighter bike and panniers instead of the trailer

Marc is from Montreal and started in Vancouver, following the TCH. He had a hairy time in Manitoba east of Winnipeg so was grateful to learn of a better route for the next time. He planned on cycling right to Montreal but got a call yesterday with a job offer starting next week. So Marc and his bike trailer will hop on a Greyhound tomorrow in Upsala to travel back home a little more quickly. 

We rolled into Upsala early in the evening after a fairly gentle day in terms of hills, temperature, traffic and tail wind. We found a campsite next to a small lake and behind a gas station. Here is a shot of our view tonight.

I went in for a swim as soon as I could and it felt awesomely refreshing. It's a large day indeed when one can have two swims.

The plan tomorrow is to get an early start and head to Kakabeka Falls. From there we will drive to Reta Lake, and the "camp" (Thunder Bay lingo for cottage) of my oldest and dearest friend Kathy and her husband Luc. I have been several times over the years and always have a marvelous time with these guys. So we will be taking it easy there for a couple days, without internet or blog updates.

1st Installment
We are stopped in Ignace at a beautiful visitors info centre, adjacent to the library with internet access.  The library is not yet open, but how convenient there are park benches outside in the shade, and with an electrical outlet!

Ignace info centre and library - what a find!

 

Our plan is to hit the town beach soon and then carry on to somewhere near Upsala.  It's about 100 km and hot, but should be do-able.  The shoulders are OK so far today, about a metre wide and well paved with intermittent widening every once in awhile.  I can live with that!

Monday, July 9th

Distance and time: 132.5 km at 5:34
Route:  from 20 km west of Vermilion Bay to 40 km west of Ignace on hwy 17

Last night wasn't too bad despite being close to the hwy noise. Traffic seemed to die down completely during the wee hours and I had a great sleep. We're parked again tonight off the hwy, this time at a provincial picnic site. It's quite pretty and there are no signs indicating a ban on overnight parking so I hope we get away with it.

Tonight"s rest spot

The morning was great with warm sunshine, a moderate breeze behind us and less traffic than yesterday. The paved shoulders felt like a huge bike lane of my own and the rolling hills melted away while I daydreamed. We pulled into Dryden before noon and found our way to the hospital to see about getting my stitches out. I asked at the paramedic office and they directed me to a walk-in clinic. The clinic was empty but couldn't take me because I wasn't a resident of Dryden, and suggested I go to emergency. Luckily all these sites were adjacent to each other and the parking fee was only $2. The hospital was also fairly quiet and hustled me through since there was no need to see a doctor, other than briefly for him to confirm they were ready to come out and rib me for wiping out in the first place . We had to soak the elbow in a saline solution for half an hour or so to soften the scabbing, and the stitches came out more easily than I expected. The nurse commented on how many knots there were and also advised it was wise on our part to get them taken out there instead of trying to do it ourselves. The emergency ward in the hospital was spotless, efficient but relaxed, and friendly - quite different from recent experiences in Ottawa. The Dr. appeared in a pair of shorts and a golf shirt!

I departed Dryden while Wayne went to see about getting a chip in the windshield fixed. He timed it right and was in and out and caught up to me in less than an hour. Unfortunately those wonderful paved shoulders ran out about 35 km east of Dryden, reduced to almost nothing for the next 20 km and then were intermittent for the rest of the day. Wayne cycled behind me for most of the 20 km, just for that extra measure of security - i.e. there is safety in numbers. The traffic wasn't bad and the only times we had to stop and veer off into the gravel occurred when opposing and overtaking traffic passed near our position. So we had to keep an eye on traffic both ways and judge accordingly. On a couple of occasions it was the oncoming traffic that posed a greater risk - like when someone pulled out to pass without seeing me, and ended up coming directly at me - a bit unnerving!

At the end of the day Wayne had gone back to get the RV and we had agreed to meet at the next picnic site unless I decided to go further and would call him. Well, the site is a bit off the road so after using the outhouse I decided to head back to the hwy so he could see me. Instead I saw my support go whizzing by, oblivious to the site. Thank goodness for cell phones and the ability to say, "hey, you passed me".


Sunday, July 8th

Distance and Time: 137.1km to 5:58
Route: West Hawk Lake to 20km east of Vermillion Bay, ON on hwys 44, 1 and 17

We drove back a few km into Manitoba to start from our finishing point yesterday. Fortuitously we filled up with gas at $1.22/litre vs $1.35 in Ontario. I mentioned the barricade closing off the visitors centre at the Ontario border in my update yesterday. Turns out it is closed permanently and services downloaded to the regional info centre in Kenora. It's really hard to figure out that decision as hwy 17 is the only gateway into Ont from western Canada. It's even harder to believe that the decision blind-sided the staff in Kenora, who aren't yet up to speed on provincial stuff, and the local MP (I got the full scoop in Kenora). Plus there are no signs coming into Kenora for visitor info and one must divert about 12km off the main hwy. Apparently three new visitor info centres opened in Toronto. I wonder which party the local MP represents.

At any rate, the hwy to Kenora was excellent - lots of traffic, yes, but a newly paved full lane wide shoulder. We went into town and got the info we needed on the roads along the two options. We also encountered a couple of strange souls. I stopped to talk to a fully laden cyclist to ask him about the routes he had taken. He gave me a blank look and simply said "the main one". I mentioned our routes and the book advice on Manitoba and upcoming decisions and he just shrugged. Wayne went to get the book for him to have a look at (thinking he might want the camping stops for the next few days) but he didn't even glance at it. He was from Inverness, Scotland and a real "lone wolf", seeming to just be playing it all by ear as he goes along. He said he started in Horseshoe Bay and was headed for Toronto and when I asked if he was taking the Manitoulin ferry and going down the Bruce Peninsula, he gave me another blank look. Maybe I am over-planning this trip and should perhaps fly more by the seat of my pants?

At the same time I was talking to the buddy from Scotland, Wayne was in the RV calling me when a very distraught young aboriginal girl knocked on the door. She was in tears about being woken up late and missing her pick up ride into town. Wayne told her he could take her to town but he had to stop at the info centre with me first. She was still sobbing when I met her but it was difficult to get accurate info from her about what she needed. The girls at the centre helped direct us to the mall where the girl was supposed to meet her mother to go out of town. She calmed down and seemed OK when we dropped her off at the Zellers mall, but then we went back to pick up a couple things at No Frills and she was still there all alone waiting on a bench - no phone, no money, no purse, nothing to occupy her. We asked if she was OK and she nodded, but I'm going to wonder about her for a while. Puzzling as well is the fact that the mall wasn't that far away and she would have gotten there far sooner if she had walked instead of waiting for us while at the visitors centre.

Like I said, the girls at the visitor centre provided a lot of help and the centre itself is a gorgeous structure with a beautiful view of the lake.

They called around to other visitor centres to ask about paved shoulders and the outcome was that the TCH was good and hwys 71 and 11 had narrower shoulders but they are paved as well. Although the extra distance on the southern route is 88km. I had been leaning towards this option after some recent feedback from my friend Kathy in Thunder Bay. So despite the extra day of cycling we opted for this route. The shoulders did indeed become quite narrow and after the first semi-truck passed I started to have second thoughts. To put it in a nutshell, we had a brief discussion and decided to give the TCH a try for at least a few km. So we backtracked and a few km turned into 55 on the TCH before we called it a day. Althouh the shoulders aren't as wonderful as the leg to Kenora, they have been quite decent so far. I guess buddy from Inverness is somewhere ahead of me so maybe I'll catch up with him sometime this week.

I've thoroughly enjoyed the change in terrain today with lots of rolling hills and curves and rock formations. It all feels so familiar, just like the landscape around Ottawa. It's also a nice change to start using all my gears again and more of the core muscles.  The weather today too was super with a high of 25 and a cooling breeze most of the day.

We are parked in a spot similar to last night, so I won't add another boring photo of the bush! We're closer to the hwy so it's going to be a bit noisier. One of these days we'll get back to a regular campsite with a lake and hook-up, but in the meantime this is quite OK. I've been thinking about my comment the other day concerning bringing the wrong bike. I guess my mind was tied up with road conditions that day, and after a day like today I realize bringing both bikes would have been the better decision. As Sam put it, "you didn't bring the extra bike but you brought your entire tea collection. It's the only cupboard in the house which is completely empty!". Hmmm I think she is hinting at a funny sense of priorities there. :)

Leg 5 - Regina, Sask. to West Hawk Lake, Man. - June 30 to July 7

Leg 5 total: 931km 
Grand Total: 2917.6km

1st segment - Regina to hwy 5 at TCH in Manitoba

2nd segment - Junction of hwy 5 and 68 to West Hawk Lake, Manitoba

Saturday, July 7th

Distance and Time: 115.7km at 5:08
Route: Beausejour to West Hawk Lake (5km to ON border) on hwy 44

Woke to the usual CBC news from Winnipeg - today it was about a fatality from a fight, yesterday about a fatality from a drug overdose, and on previous days there was everything in between. Getting out of town was OK but hwy 44 had narrowed to a single lane, still with zero shoulders. I noticed a service road off to the side and although it was quite rough, it took me to the junction of hwy 11. I ventured back on only to have another flat. While waiting for Wayne to arrive to help I worked on my raccoon-eye and pale-hand tan. It was hot and luckily I brought repellent with me (I think we've given up on the patches after one try). There was a nice mini paved shoulder for 20km while 44 and 11 merged, but once 11 turned off to the south and 44 continued east the road was rough and narrow. It didn't really matter though, since traffic was extremely light, the topography seemed to change almost immediately and we started to see the western edge of the Canadian shield, pine forests and bogs. Good-bye prairies and hello to the welcome sight of rock outcroppings! This type of terrain should be with us until home.

Wayne cycled with me for a few km then drove the RV to the town of Rennie and came back to meet me.

After Rennie the 44 became even more isolated and there was a bear country sign so I asked him to stay with me. We continued together for about 16km and since we were only a few km from the park campgrounds I felt safe enough to continue on my own. I prayed for no flat tires for either of us and things went smoothly, other than the constant buzzing of huge horse flies about my head. I knew Wayne had a long haul against the wind so I stopped at a store for a break at Penniac Bay, just short of the park campground at West Hawk Lake. What a find - this store was a combination of convenience, plumbing parts and service and a neat gift shop. The owners filled my water bottle, made me tea (they even had stevia available for a sweetener) and let me watch the Wimbledon highlights for a while. Thanks Lori (coincidence that our names match) for the hospitality and letting me hang out in your air conditioned store for a long while.

I continued onto West Hawk Lake and found some hills! I waited for Wayne there, me and bike under the shade in the breeze. When he arrived we continued to the park campground office but unfortunately there were no sites available there or elsewhere in the park closeby, being the weekend. Overnight parking wasn't allowed either, so after pumping out and taking on water we drove to the border. Yippee - Ontario! Those of you of a certain vintage will be familiar with the jingle running through my head - "A place to stand, a place to grow, Ontari- ari- ari- o"! It's an understatement to say I am happy to be here. The visitors info centre was closed and entrance barricaded (what kind of welcome is that) but we'll stop in tomorrow as I cycle back from West Hawk Lake across the border. There are a number of questions to which I hope to get answers for, such as the quality of roads and where I can get my stitches out on Monday (versus getting Wayne to take them out). Anyway, we continued past the info centre and are camped in the wilderness off the side of Gundy Rd, not far from the TCH. I am happy to report that the shoulders on the TCH are paved along the short stretch I'll travel in the morning, and hopefully that will continue for a while towards Kenora.

On EDT and still light out at 10:30!

BTW, my elbow feels great other than a small patch of numv skin. The knee is a different story and I think I'll be making an appointment with the sports medicine clinic in Ottawa.


Friday, July 6th - Happy Birthday Wayne!!

Distance and Time: 59.6km at 2:46
Route: Selkirk to Beausejour

We spent the day in Selkirk shopping and getting caught up with e-mail, etc. (parked at a McCafe) and it was close to 6:00 before we got away with all the other Friday night traffic headed out of town. I followed the route suggested in the book, hwy 204, 409 and 59 to the 44. Now 44 is a four lane divided hwy from Winnipeg, but there were no shoulders, not even an inch! What is it about this province that offers paved shoulders on an extremely quiet road 150km north of the major population centres, and only a pile of loose gravel on major thoroughfares nearer the large cities? Could it possibly be that there is a Conservative MP from the Interlakes region? Anyway, 44 was too busy for my liking and I diverted to a gravel side road. Wayne thought I was a wimp but he did drive back from Beausejour to change my flat which was no surprise on that road. My road bike is not suitable for gravel or rough roads and how I wish I had brought my touring bike either as the main vehicle or as an alternative for rough roads and gravel shoulders. There, I've said what has been on my mind since day 1 of this cycle on the dyke trail - I didn't listen to my intuition, and brought the wrong bike. Heavens, with all the space in the RV I could have brought both and had so much more versatility and safety. Sure, it would have been a little slower, but I would be more comfortable and probably wouldn't have had the wipe-out. OK, glad to have gotten that out of my system. Guess which bike I'm taking from Ottawa to Sydney?

After I abandoned hwy 44 I took the 212, 213, 12 and 215, all back country roads to Beausejour. They were rough and traffic was moderate at times but it was far less intense than 44. Of course this route added some distance, taking twice as long to get into town (we rolled in at 9:30!)  Along the route we saw some interesting sights, such as this Ukrainian church in Cook's Creek:
http://www.winnipegfreepress.com/local/faith-enduring-70094632.html

Cook's Creek Ukrainian Immaculate Conception Church with grotto on quiet country 212 in the middle of nowhere

Once in Beausejour (pop 3000) we went searching for a place to eat. There wasn't much but we found a unique little place called the Copper Pot with a coffee shop in the front, a restaurant in the middle, a sports bar at the back and a patio beyond that. It just kept going on and on!

Our server was very friendly and welcoming and interested in our trip. We had a truly awesome borscht (which I had asked for the recipe) and I finally got a feed of perogies (which I've been meaning to sample while in Manitoba...yum). Wayne's birthday supper was a "big boy burger" which ended up being on the house!

This wonderful and generous gesture ended our day on a real high note. We had struck up a conversation during the meal with Jennifer, the owner, a very interesting and diversified young entrepreneur. Check out her other business endeavours at: www.bisonpromotions.com and www.worldreflections.ca

Wow! How do some people have so much energy? We parked the RV on a side street right in town near the main drag, and nestled down with full bellies and warm feelings about the folks here.


Thursday, July 5th

Distance and Time: 152.8km at 6:01
Route: 20 km past Eriksdale to Selkirk on hwys 68, 222, and 9

I didn't manage to meet my objective last night and actually slept in a bit longer than normal. We had a campfire (our first) and watched a gorgeous full moon rising so I can blame that for not getting to bed earlier. Unfortunately the bugs were really bad and those fantastic repellent patches I bought don't do as well as the spray-on type which Wayne keeps rubbing in.

I had a tailwind form heaven in the morning and clocked 65km in two hours heading east to Lake Winnipeg on hwy 68 with smooth paved shoulders (I mention those a lot, don't I?) and very light traffic. That all changed when we turned south on 222. The road was rough, shoulders non-existant and the cross wind was fierce. We stopped for lunch at a park in Arnes, birthplace of the fmaous Arctic explorer Stefansson. It's really interesting to see all the Finnish and Icelandic names of places and people along the northern route these last couple of days. There was even a small village named "Reykjavik".

So I struggled a bit getting down to Gimli on hwy 222 but traffic was still light and slower on the secondary road. We stopped in Gimli in the late afternoon for a swim on a long gravel beach right in town near the CG station (picture to follow). The water was very cold considering how shallow the lake is and it took me a long time to get submerged, but it was worth it. While getting to the beach we inadvertently stumbled into a wedding ceremony. And we had wondered why a bagpiper had been playing?

Breakwater in Gimli Harbour

the "Gimli Glider"

After some ice cream in Gimli (this is becoming an afternoon habit in the hot weather - I arrived on the prairies lean and hard and will be leaving soft and pudgy. I guess I need those northern ON hills), I decided to put another 30km in. After that point we were only 25km from Selkirk and there was no obvious place to stay nearby so we figured why no press on? We were still refreshed from the swim, the cross wind had died out, I hadn't pushed myself by any means today, it had cooled off, and we would avoid the Friday cottage traffic. It was a no-brainer. Wayne went ahead and found a Walmart so here we sit, parking lot riff-raff again. We'll scurry around in the morning to replenish before getting back on the road in the afternoon. Good timing for shopping as I need to get something for the birthday boy tomorrow. I don't think he would relish a candle on one of my burnt quinoa brownies for his celebration!


Wednesday, July 4th

Distance and Time: 133km at 5:08
Route: Eddystone to 20km past Eriksdale on hwy 68

The morning was cloudy and threatening rain with a few drops here and there, followed by a hot and sunny afternoon. Superb day all around even though the humidex reached 37. Cloudy is better for the cooler temperature and also because I'm getting a weird tan - white feet and hands and thighs, along with raccoon eyes worse than Adrienne's. I wish I could cycle in a bathing suit!

Raccoon eyes!

The highway was similar to 570 in Alberta, excellent shape, and traffic very light. It was totally flat and I had a good tailwind. I think the steep hills of Northern Ontario will come as a big shock! We stopped at midday for a swim at the Narrows just past the bridge dividing the northern and southern parts of Lake Manitoba. I had been dreaming for days of being immersed in cool refreshing water and it was an absolutely delicious feeling. Just have to find more swimming spots at the end of the hot days to make things perfect. I'll be looking for just that on Lake Winnipeg tomorrow evening.

commercial establishment at the Narrows

water fowl at the Narrows

 

Cycled through lots of wetland with a variety of water fowl, and some farming area and grazing cattle. Did I mention how much I love the way they look at us? I especially like the ones with white faces and dark brown or black bodies. Some great photos taken with Wayne's camera will follow when we can download them from the computer.

We drove back to Eriksdale and are staying at a municipal campground tonight. It is basic, without water or electricity, but it it quiet and well maintained and a nice distance off the highway.

We're eating early tonight at 8:00 enjoying a dinner of salmon along with a cold beer. The objective tonight is to go to bed earlier than midnight in order to get on the road in cooler temperatures tomorrow.


Tuesday, July 3rd

2nd installment:

Distance and Time: 103.5km at 4:40
Route: Alexander to Eddystone on hwy 68

We're 25km onto hwy 68 now and stopped for the night just off the road. It was an excellent decision with a great road and hardly any traffic.

P.S. Elbow and knee are much better today and feel almost normal!

1st installment:
Last night was a noisy one parked in Alexander.  Note how close the train is to our camping spot!

We've made a major route change today and are driving 135km north on hwy 5 from the TCH to Ste Rose du Lac where I will continue cycling east on hwy 68. It will mean not being part of the EFI (Every Freaking Inch) club but it will be safe and more scenic. It will break the route, but we'll be starting to head east again slightly northwest of where we stopped. So because of that and cycling a greater distance in a general south east direction in the remainder of the province assuages my guilt at letting the EFI down. Turns out the shoulders on the TCH are only paved in some spots between Brandon and Winnipeg and not at all from Winnipeg to the Ontario border. Wayne stopped in Brandon at the visitors info centre and on his second round of questions they pulled out a book from the back room, "Canada by Bicycle" by Steve Langston, published last year. Well, Manitoba is the only province in which Steve did not cycle on the TCH because, in his words "hwy 1 is notoriously dangerous in many parts of Manitoba with little or no shoulder". He took the northern route which I had been considering, which he says offers safer cycling, more services and better scenery. So I called Travel Manitoba and they pretty much confirmed what we had read. Thanks to Nadine, who provided all the answers to my many questions.

Sure wish I had found this book earlier but also very glad to have it now. He provides all kinds of details on campsites, eating spots, what to see and do, historical tidbits, etc. And as Wayne says, if I had had it before, I would have taken the northern route through Sask, would have had my accident somewhere, else and the outcome definitely would not have been as good! So far today I've logged 77.5km at 3:26 and I hope to get a few more in when we start again.

Heading up to the northern route will be a good idea for another reason - it's too hot to cycle and heading north might cool things down a degree or two. I've actually been doing better than I thought I would in the heat but it's time to bite the bullet and start getting up around sunrise and getting the bulk of the cycle in before noon.


Monday, July 2nd

Distance and Time: 127.3km at 4:53
Route: Redvers, Sask. to Alexander, Manitoba on hwy 2 and 21 north to the TCH

Crossed into Manitoba and the Central time zone! And a warm good-bye Saskatchewan.  You threw us for a couple of loops but at the same time treated us royally.  We loved your maritime friendliness and eager willingness to provide assistance when we needed it. And the roads were quite decent, too, despite the initial few bad km coming into the province.

launching in Redvers

Note the difference in time from yesterday considering  the similar distances, since I had an amazing tailwind most of the day. After crossing the Manitoba border, the paved shoulders disappeared completely. Although the road was good, there was a steady stream of traffic - trucks and big RVs - so I really had to watch carefully and actually stop and walk the bike into the gravel a few times when oncoming and behind traffic met near me. Those very wide, very loose gravel shoulders didn't help my fear factor! So we turned north on 21 which was rough with nothing on the side and heading into the wind. My wonderful 28km/h went down the tubes but there was virtually no traffic. I wasn't sure what I'd see at the TCH so the lovely wide, newly paved shoulders were a very welcome sight.

With that in mind, we think we'll stick with the TCH from here on and hopefully meet some other cyclists doing the same thing. Wayne tells me most of them follow that route, and although the quiet country roads have been a treat, especially seeing the small places, I'm ready for more amenities and maybe even campsites with a swimming hole in this heat. Not so tonight - we are parked in the shade of a ball field near the sleepy town of Alexander. The TCH is a few hundred meters away and the train tracks even closer. I wonder what the night will bring? We'll be firing up the generator and AC an hour before bed to cool things down. Unfortunately we turned north before the town of Souris. I wanted to go looking for the bullet ridden barn doors that have something to do with Louis Real. My dad told me that Mabel's mother was born there in the late 1800's and it was her Dad's barn!

There was no welcome to Manitoba sign or visitor info this morning, just as there was neither when we crossed into Saskatchewan. Another reason to switch from the country roads since we have no camping or road info other than an old map. We got spoiled in BC with big visitor centres in all the towns with tons of info. My arm and leg (mostly wrist and ankle) are swollen. I hope it may have something to do with not taking advil anymore since it has anti-inflammatory benefits. Maybe that and the heat. I'm experiencing the sensation of water dripping down my left calve since the accident, but every time I go to wipe it off it is completely dry - go figure. I must google that the next time we have a good wifi connection!


Sunday, July 1st (Happy Canada Day)


Distance and Time: 125.8km at 6:29
Route: Creelman to Redvers, Sask. on hwy 33 and 13

It was a slow day because of headwinds and frequent breaks for stretching and watering down.  It was hot, but not unbearably so, and I could feel my body getting back to normal as the day wore on.  I was able to use my left arm and hand almost normally, and the knee is not as swollen and stiff as it was yesterday.  Thanks to everyone who sent their wishes and hopes for a speedy elbow recovery :).

launching on Canada Day

 

Hwy 33 was rough most of the way, but hwy 13 is excellent and I hope it continues into Manitoba (only 20 km away at the moment).  There was a fair bit of traffic, even though a holiday Sunday, because this area is booming in a similar fashion to what we noticed in North Dakota when driving through in May.  There are countless drill rigs spotting the landscape, lots building activity in the small towns and many tanker trucks heading back and forth.

southern Saskatchewan landscape

We cruised through Redvers upon our arrival and found an unsecrued wifi near the town office, so here we sit in the parking lot.  Apparently our cell coverage should click back in at the Manitoba border so at least we'll have e-mail capability.

Wayne cooked up his seafood pasta (or fettucini a la Wayne as John Verde named it) tonight and we dined elegantly as the fireworks popped in the sky on the other side of town (maybe four streets over).

Saturday, June 30th

Distance and Time: 113.3km at 4:26
Route: Regina to Creelman on Hwy 33

2nd Installment:
Thanks again Sam.  We stayed in a municipal campsite near Creelman last night in a grove of bushes beside the cemetery.  Hung out with many horse flies and a few local campers and had a good yarn.  They told me about "banana boats", a camping treat similar to "s'mores".  You split a banana and fill it with marshmallows and chocolate chips, cover with foil and bake over an open fire.  These I will try!  The moon was almost full, a fresh breeze cooled things off, and I zonked out for a good and healing sleep.

Campsite near Creelman, Sask.

1st Installment:
Sam here again. They won't have any cell coverage or internet for a few days, so Mom will be updating through me when she can get to a payphone. (Mostly because Grandpa Ken worries if he doesn't see a blog update almost every day!).

She says she had a good massage this morning which helped with the neck, and they left at 2:30 in great conditions with a fresh breeze behind. Her body is still sore from the fall, but the elbow feels OK. Her knee is sore, so she's going to take care of that and get it looked at if needed. There will also be a new picture to come of the banner that she made (jury-rigged from the Walmart sewing section) to velcro on her back!

launching from the Hoffman's in Regina